tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-72698839030290355592024-03-05T01:22:55.830-05:00The Crumb Catcher:Adventures in FoodJureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.comBlogger25125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-63405662964760041442009-03-09T23:28:00.004-04:002009-03-09T23:49:21.861-04:00The Beauty of Fried Egg SoupDavid Tanis’s new cookbook, <em>A Platter of Figs</em>, has been called “a gem”, “inspired” and “one of best cookbooks of the year”. I agree, and although I have only cooked a couple dishes from it, I’ve been swayed by the beautiful matte photography of its simple ingredients and the inventiveness of the carefully planned meals. In fact, I have often curled up with the book, fantasizing about all of the amazing meals I will prepare over the year.<br /><br />The recipe I have enjoyed the most so far is for a soup. I have a particular weakness for the velvety soups that taste like the elixir of the gods—like those ingeniously made at Gramercy Tavern in NYC and 10 01 in Portland. Sadly at home, no matter how much cream I seem to add, or how crazy I get with my emulsion blender, I just can’t seem to recreate that velvety, creamy goodness. Therefore, my house winds up quite….soupless.<br /><br />But recently, when flipping through the spring section of Platter of Figs, I became enchanted with the idea of doing the “Salmon on my Mind” meal with fried egg soup, roasted salmon with Vietnamese cucumbers, and rose scented strawberries. I was particularly curious about the “fried egg soup.” Generally, anything with ginger and garlic catches my attention, and I am very fond of cooking eggs in sauces and broths. This soup could not be simpler. You fry the eggs ahead of time, so it is a great dish for company, and you can also have the broth simmering and ready to go. If you are really inspired and make a great broth from scratch, the soup will be even better. I am one of those cooks who has never really kept homemade stock in the freezer, but even if you use prepared stock (I used Pacifica chicken broth), it will still be great.<br /><br />This is also the perfect meal for one if you happen to be having dinner on your own. I think it going to be ideal for variations—as soon as the summer basil crop comes in, I am going to take out the ginger and bok choy, and add some pesto and zucchini instead. I will be soupless no more!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhztCvuQkF0u7Y9WI8tyNH9lNzDwsUriKZut8bsYuH1oNS4WqTYksXtX6y8EjHKQ8hubqsdz967qAHhCyeQwqeu16W7zCiWJcAenxdSZxPwZSKJtsXsya4-jFyAo6ndWevtIc6dPlNtMzI/s1600-h/egg+soup.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 293px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhztCvuQkF0u7Y9WI8tyNH9lNzDwsUriKZut8bsYuH1oNS4WqTYksXtX6y8EjHKQ8hubqsdz967qAHhCyeQwqeu16W7zCiWJcAenxdSZxPwZSKJtsXsya4-jFyAo6ndWevtIc6dPlNtMzI/s320/egg+soup.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5311396327741462370" /></a><br />Fried Egg Soup<br /><br />- serves 4 -<br /><br />Adapted from <em>A Platter of Figs</em> by David Tanis.<br /><br />Ingredients<br /><br />4 eggs<br />3 tablespoons olive oil<br />Salt and pepper<br />6 cups chicken stock<br />2 bunches green garlic shoots or 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced<br />1 half-inch piece of ginger, peeled and finely chopped<br />1 1/2 cups thinly sliced bok choy or baby spinach<br />4 scallions, slivered<br /><br />1. Bring the stock to a simmer in a soup pot, then add the garlic and ginger. Simmer for about five minutes, then check for seasoning. Salt and pepper as needed.<br /><br />2. In the meantime, heat the olive oil in a skillet and fry the eggs gently until the white is set but the yolk is still a bit runny. Season generously with salt and pepper. The eggs can be fried ahead of serving.<br /><br />3. Add the spinach or bok choy to the broth and simmer for an additional minute. Ladle into shallow bowls, and top each with a fried egg.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com142tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-1484915841792262622009-01-14T23:07:00.008-05:002009-01-14T23:36:42.170-05:00Pomegranate-Glazed Roast PorkI know that January is a time for resolutions, most of them generally involving promises of living healthier and indulging less in meat, alcohol and the like, but I have been wanting to blog about this recipe for some time. This recipe for one of the most delicious roasts I have ever eaten would have been perfect for December, but for most of the month, I was deep in a snow and ice driven funk after our romantic, white Christmas in Portland weather went on for two weeks and hindered my travel plans.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZ9nkKV6vB88M1ui_IO21fsT7wqkhnaJ5xCC8uizvqAic26KabEv86I4DM6IFJVjbql-5IJi8qSTU8QIdLGeceI28BKkRsL6VN1RKtiLZBWqKzIMQepB1x_0My-SabiV75gSQBIPMsEiO/s1600-h/raw+roast.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 230px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZ9nkKV6vB88M1ui_IO21fsT7wqkhnaJ5xCC8uizvqAic26KabEv86I4DM6IFJVjbql-5IJi8qSTU8QIdLGeceI28BKkRsL6VN1RKtiLZBWqKzIMQepB1x_0My-SabiV75gSQBIPMsEiO/s320/raw+roast.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5291368136288576674" /></a><br /><br />I have a predilection for anything tart and this recipe is no different. It is slathered in a simple mixture of pomegranate molasses, dry mustard, and maple syrup, which results in the most amazing balance of the savory with the sweet. I notice that I use that expression quite a bit, and I must say that this combination is the driving force behind most of the foods that I love. Over time, I have even noticed (get ready for it) a waning love for anything overly sweet, which includes most of my former favorite desserts (from cookies and cakes to my nightly ice cream). Now, don’t get me wrong, I still have a fondness for those desserts, but now often when eating something sweet I am searching for balance. You may not have pomegranate molasses in your pantry, but after trying this you will probably want to add it to everything from fish and chicken to vegetables and dips—it is beautifully tart and acidic, and again, not too sweet. I was able to find my bottle at my local Whole Foods, but they should also have it at Middle Eastern markets. <br /><br />I first made this roast for my father’s surprise birthday party last year. My mom, the genius that she is, surprised him with a trip to Savannah, Georgia, where his entire family was waiting for him in the most beautiful gothic townhouse. Deciding to go with a new recipe was a risk but it certainly paid off. It was perfect with a creamy potato gratin, and if you do decide to serve it with the gratin, be sure to dip the potatoes in the pomegranate pork jus. The roast could not be simpler and once you try it, I predict you will want to make it for someone special. It might even inspire you to throw a surprise party of your own.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz22-vWcydB7lvrEb8noVzBPb2HF3xvet5mMMssm7r7tdhHEIgszA7ARHq-hMExU2ThnjT3R_6rffremZDXun5xQlNNwoQ2edBEsWaeOtfuJ7_MrNP-dXgOt-l_TEb9uF5q-qG9b-On3hC/s1600-h/roast.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgz22-vWcydB7lvrEb8noVzBPb2HF3xvet5mMMssm7r7tdhHEIgszA7ARHq-hMExU2ThnjT3R_6rffremZDXun5xQlNNwoQ2edBEsWaeOtfuJ7_MrNP-dXgOt-l_TEb9uF5q-qG9b-On3hC/s320/roast.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5291368677671223922" /></a><br /><br /><strong>Pomegranate-Glazed Roast Pork</strong><br /><br />Adapted from Food and Wine <br />Ingredients<br />1/2 cup pomegranate molasses <br />1 1/2 tablespoons pure maple syrup <br />4 garlic cloves, minced <br />1 tablespoon dry mustard <br />2 teaspoons chopped rosemary <br />One 5 1/2-pound pork rib roast, at room temperature <br />2 tablespoons canola oil <br />Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper <br />Directions<br />1. Mix the molasses, maple syrup, garlic, dry mustard and rosemary to make a glaze. Rub the pork with the oil, season with salt and pepper, and roast in a 500° oven for 25 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 375° and roast for 20 minutes. Brush the roast with the glaze and cook for 25 minutes or until the center reaches 155°; brush with glaze again 10 minutes before it's done. Let the roast stand for 15 minutes, then carve and serve with the pan juices mixed with the remaining glaze.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-70961342372816624662008-12-17T23:02:00.004-05:002008-12-17T23:10:22.137-05:00Eggs and SnowIt is snowing in Portland. Snowing, It’s-a-White-Christmas, giant, powdery white snowflakes kind of snow. The kind of snow that conjures the Charlie Brown Christmas soundtrack and dreams of skating in Rockefeller Center and drinking hot cocoa afterwards at Serendipity. <br /><br />After I have imbibed all of the hot chocolate I can possibly handle, it is precisely this kind of day that makes me crave comfort food! One of my favorite comfort dishes is one that Court introduced me to when we were first dating. In fact, I think he pulled it out to make sure I would be powerless to resist him. It is a simple Cantonese dish that transports him right back to his childhood, and for me, provides great satisfaction when I don’t want to make much of an effort for dinner.<br /><br />Steamed eggs might not sound like the incredibly luxurious dish that it actually is. It is a very simple dish—with only 4-5 ingredients and a short cooking time, but the result is a silken custard of savory eggs topped with scallions and oyster sauce. I am incredibly attached to oyster sauce—it is the perfect balance of savory and sweet. I should warn you that it might take a couple of attempts to find the perfect bowl to cook it in. We like rounded bottom ceramic dishes the best, and use our double boiler as our steamer. It is hard to nail down a cooking time, as it varies so much from dish to dish, so for the first time please stand close by and check every two minutes with a fork. You will know it is set when it is the texture of silken tofu in the middle. Once you have the cooking time down, it might just become one of your go to comfort foods as well.<br /><br />Let it snow!<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYklcavYEyTBeejUE3oqc61XFqrBM0foa6rWSTzqLqxRhdvW972UlFeD0xOcEyAJlJ1tYu7YEuCxAXZzeo0MY0Un4SKKGrUR61oNG007rgu-pTtej0ob4p2PZ6JNVO-ayhPAEH9v3ZoHd/s1600-h/eggs.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 240px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcYklcavYEyTBeejUE3oqc61XFqrBM0foa6rWSTzqLqxRhdvW972UlFeD0xOcEyAJlJ1tYu7YEuCxAXZzeo0MY0Un4SKKGrUR61oNG007rgu-pTtej0ob4p2PZ6JNVO-ayhPAEH9v3ZoHd/s320/eggs.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5280976414541452338" /></a><br /><br />Cantonese Style Chinese Steamed Eggs<br /><br />Serves 2<br />Ingredients<br />• 3 eggs<br />• ¼ cup broth (I use chicken)<br />• 1/2 teaspoon of salt<br />• 2-3 drops of toasted sesame oil<br />• 1 teaspoon canola oil to coat the bowl<br />• 2-3 scallions, finely minced<br />First, bring water in double boiler or wok to a rolling boil and be sure to coat the bowl with canola oil.<br />Whisk the egg with salt, sesame oil and broth in the ceramic bowl. <br />Place bowl into a steamer or double boiler and cover with lid. (You can make your own steamer by simply adding some water into a wok and raise the bowl above the water by using a small wire rack. If you do this, don’t close the wok lid fully... leave a small gap) <br />Gently steam for 8-15 min (time varies greatly depending on dish). You should open the lid and check if the egg is cooked by placing a fork in the center to see if it has set. Remember that it should be the texture of silken tofu.<br />Remove from steamer, drizzle with oyster sauce and sprinkle scallions on top just before serving. Serve with steamed white rice.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-21538371980570584812008-12-03T23:05:00.007-05:002008-12-03T23:22:34.336-05:00Jill's Stuffed Cornish Game Hens<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR23MBDZoAdZDUGP1uYax3GJqsbpNseFUfGqHtInXfikPWHRCE-ViVca4o8rZhzw8I61MlSa2Zr4s1QFpgutQmEpYAPbuHjKPNLppRbu8J8PwHeXiZfmMIK8NUcXxif8APbLXL9muiZxQ/s1600-h/galette.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 257px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFR23MBDZoAdZDUGP1uYax3GJqsbpNseFUfGqHtInXfikPWHRCE-ViVca4o8rZhzw8I61MlSa2Zr4s1QFpgutQmEpYAPbuHjKPNLppRbu8J8PwHeXiZfmMIK8NUcXxif8APbLXL9muiZxQ/s320/galette.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275783708746525842" /></a><br /><br />I am thankFULL.<br /><br />I must admit that after moving away from all our family and friends earlier this year, Thanksgiving was not something I was looking forward to. This may be a common feeling for many of those who have to journey long distances to have stress-inducing conversations with extended family, but for me, Thanksgiving has always been an uproarious family event with a ridiculous amount of amazing food and hilarious conversations with people I love. My relatives plan out the menus months ahead of time and the day itself is spent imbibing copious amounts of champagne while roasting birds and vegetables to culminate in a collectively prepared feast. <br /><br />Over the years, I have spent Thanksgivings apart from my family, but always in the company of friends who have felt like family themselves. This year my Thanksgiving woes were put to rest by my dear friend Emma, who also loves food, plots out feasts months ahead of time, and even better yet, loves to drink champagne while filling pies, stuffing birds and roasting squash. <br /><br />We had a delightful dinner for six—starting out with one of my favorite salads: grapefruit, avocado and butter lettuce is the ultimate palate cleanser (to help wash away the many rich cheeses we had been devouring in the hours leading up to the meal). <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6lXia2SU3LAs62xwn4i87cFxU0p5aslI-Ju02uZgTPZV31GEEhWEzNPMOUUIbVnsHlzF8qQJU9PPcvyAWnbmVr377KM4lupy5w6oBoYOs8Q96DcJOPCsNSoAj1XKU2xdMy476boF9Ec1/s1600-h/salad.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 231px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx6lXia2SU3LAs62xwn4i87cFxU0p5aslI-Ju02uZgTPZV31GEEhWEzNPMOUUIbVnsHlzF8qQJU9PPcvyAWnbmVr377KM4lupy5w6oBoYOs8Q96DcJOPCsNSoAj1XKU2xdMy476boF9Ec1/s320/salad.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275783367973715154" /></a><br /><br />The star of the main event was my mother’s amazing Cornish game hens dusted with nutmeg and stuffed with herb cheese. I have come to enjoy preparing turkey (I baste all day in butter and wine), but when we found out there would be just six of us, Cornish game hens seemed so much more special. We served it with caramelized butternut squash, roasted brussels sprouts with pancetta, apple sausage stuffing, homemade cranberry sauce and my mom’s mashed potatoes.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSoeb7EZlehdYFNSqxuVG3dofr7dtt3D90moYNHssmG3Q4MZT_16VxqIpiH2YxxoK189xQRy3oSzLbFBYMr9iihnbKXJgQBgco8sCouAqO5I_iyLIgLsrujlLNpsnwrcD8SeTdNnevUK5l/s1600-h/game+hens.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 282px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSoeb7EZlehdYFNSqxuVG3dofr7dtt3D90moYNHssmG3Q4MZT_16VxqIpiH2YxxoK189xQRy3oSzLbFBYMr9iihnbKXJgQBgco8sCouAqO5I_iyLIgLsrujlLNpsnwrcD8SeTdNnevUK5l/s320/game+hens.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275784926825685346" /></a><br /><br />As much as I loved the entree, Emma’s beautiful apple galette may have been my favorite of the night—she even made a homemade Calvados applesauce! Suffice to say, a wonderful time was had by all!<br /><br /><br /><strong>Jill’s Stuffed Cornish Game Hens</strong>:<br /><br />These are ridiculously easy, and a real show stopper. I generally serve with a loaf of crusty bread, roasted carrots (with butter and thyme) and a nice bottle of red wine. <br /><br />Ingredients<br /><br />• 4 (1-2 pound) Cornish game hens <br />• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter <br />• Salt and white pepper <br />• Freshly ground nutmeg<br />• 1/4 cup white wine <br />• 1/4 cup chicken stock <br />• 1 container of herb Boursin or Alouette cheese<br /><br />Directions<br /><br />*The night ahead: scoop out six 1-2 Tbsp of Boursin or Alouette cheese and wrap individually in plastic wrap. Place the herb packets in the freezer overnight. You can get away with freezing them the morning of if you forget!<br />Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F and position the oven rack in the center of the oven. <br /><br />Rinse hens inside and out with cold water and pat dry with paper towels. Tuck wing tips under the hens, then place them, breast side up, in a large roasting pan, alternating directions of hens so that they fit well in the pan. Rub the hens with 1/2 tablespoon each of the butter. Season the hens inside and out with salt, white pepper, and nutmeg. Unwrap the cheese and place inside the cavity of each bird. Tie each hen’s legs with kitchen twine. Roast hens for 20-25 minutes, then move them slightly in the pan to prevent them from sticking on the bottom. Continue to roast the hens until they are golden brown and the juices run clear, about 20-30 minutes longer. The hens are done when you can pull the leg away from the body without any resistance.<br /><br />Remove the pan from the oven and transfer hens to a serving platter. Cover loosely with aluminum foil while you prepare the sauce. <br /><br />Pour off any excess fat in the bottom of the roasting pan. Place the roasting pan on the stovetop over high heat. Deglaze the pan with the white wine and stock, scraping the bottom of the roasting pan with a wooden spoon. Cook until sauce has thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove from the heat, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, and season with salt and pepper, to taste. Spoon gravy over the birds and serve with crusty bread!Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-48154907503865378362008-11-18T23:49:00.006-05:002009-01-14T23:26:59.638-05:00Of Eggplants and ParmesanSince we are heading full throttle towards the beginning of a new year, I have started working on a couple of early resolutions. For one, after much hemming and hawing, I have decided to get over my need to have perfect photos to go with every entry, and just focus on writing more. I am not a photographer and do not foresee an expertise in this realm any time soon.<br /><br />As you might be able to tell from my new running head, I was also craving a new look for the site. This gorgeous ode to cheese was taken at what is undoubtedly one of my all time favorite restaurants, Gramercy Tavern in New York City. It is a photo of their renowned cheese station, and though I took this picture several months ago, I am still amazed that I was able to capture this image. Gramercy Tavern is a New York institution, the place where Tom Colicchio got his start, and a place that never fails to delight me with consistently excellent food and an ambiance that is at once intimate and rollicking. This photo reminds me how absolutely beautiful a table of nothing but cheese in all its artful simplicity can be.<br /><br />Cheeeeeesse. I would not want to imagine my world without it. When I recently discovered that I had a sensitivity to wheat, my first thought was, “Thank God its not dairy.” I was of course fazed by the news, but truth be told, I feel so much better after cutting wheat out of my diet that it’s hard to get too worked up about it. And many of my favorite recipes don’t have anything to do with wheat. After a few crestfallen moments realizing that I would have to eat less pasta (I refuse to give it up entirely!), I began to account for all the wheat free foods I could come up with. The first recipe that came to mind was Jamie Oliver’s Eggplant Parmesan. Before trying Oliver’s recipe, I was not at all a fan of this Italian-American classic. Somehow, being battered and fried and smothered in tomato sauce is something I think best left to the mozzarella sticks of my youth. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJR5IWxxV4j6wivsXakn-VAxPMimLwcg_9R_bv726NMNseirIMs7Cr_D_Li5gxuUXsA4B3JkKT0O4TAUGRQ3MMchDONKYv25OndsT9Y8QyIROIyxS6V7g4dMDoMQjQig_VSWCTHbTLeMA/s1600-h/DSCN1917.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 252px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDJR5IWxxV4j6wivsXakn-VAxPMimLwcg_9R_bv726NMNseirIMs7Cr_D_Li5gxuUXsA4B3JkKT0O4TAUGRQ3MMchDONKYv25OndsT9Y8QyIROIyxS6V7g4dMDoMQjQig_VSWCTHbTLeMA/s320/DSCN1917.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5270228618529207778" /></a><br />This recipe is light, even airy, and is delightful with a salad and crusty bread (if you are so inclined). If I want a couple extra portions leftover, I add in lasagna noodles* to make it more substantial. I also tend to add a bit of fresh mozzarella to the top, but it is lovely with or without it...<br /><br />*For gluten-free readers: I recently discovered the joy of Tinkyada’s brown rice pasta. Try theirs if you want to opt for the lasagna option.<br /><br />Eggplant Parmesan <br /><br />Adapted from “Jamie’s Italy” by Jamie Oliver (Hyperion, 2006)<br />3 medium-large eggplants, cut crosswise into ½-inch slices<br />Olive oil<br />1 large onion, finely chopped<br />1 large clove garlic, thinly sliced<br />1½ teaspoons dried oregano<br />1 28-ounce can no-salt plum tomatoes or crushed tomatoes<br />1 tablespoon red wine vinegar<br />½ cup (packed) fresh basil leaves<br />Salt and freshly ground black pepper<br />½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, or as needed<br />1/3 cup fine dry bread crumbs, optional.<br />1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano leaves, optional. <br /><br />1. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Brush both sides of eggplant slices with oil, and place in a single layer on two or more baking sheets. Bake until undersides are golden brown, 10 to 15 minutes, then turn and bake until other sides are lightly browned. Set aside. Reduce oven temperature to 375 degrees.<br /><br />2. Meanwhile, in a large saucepan over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and add onion. Sauté until soft: about 10 minutes. Add garlic and dried oregano and sauté another 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and their juices, breaking up whole tomatoes with your hands. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer 15 to 20 minutes.<br /><br />3. Add vinegar, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Into a 9-by-9-inch, 10-by-5-inch or 10-by-6-inch baking pan, spoon a small amount of tomato sauce, then add a thin scattering of parmigiano, then a single layer of eggplant. Repeat until all ingredients are used, ending with a little sauce and a sprinkling of parmigiano. In a small bowl, combine bread crumbs and oregano, if using, with just enough olive oil to moisten. Sprinkle on top. If desired, recipe can be made to this point and refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking. <br /><br />4. Bake until eggplant mixture is bubbly and center is hot, 30 to 45 minutes depending on size of pan and thickness of layers. Remove from heat and allow to rest for 5 minutes before serving. Recipe can also be reheated.<br /><br />Yield: 4 main dish servings.<br />Time: About an hour 45 minutes- 1 hourJureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-75238016030902307882008-11-02T21:37:00.006-05:002009-01-14T23:27:19.176-05:00The Season of Short RibsI feel as though I have spent the last year trying to disavow my love of meat. I think it is fair to say that I’m quite conflicted. Some months have been more successful than others – July and August were a breeze. Particularly if I discount the dinner my brother and I spent at the delicious meat-intensive restaurant Beast in 105 degree weather—consuming 5 courses as we did our best not to melt.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwvNqm5gSbiIXz6lef2aUF9PEvxWdKzvTO4LuA53TxoczPJSv5YjdZQ-Ew3zuSDq2izHGtLZMLdmprbwSA0rHAI1OlJUcjJbBVX4CkBLFwq_2UfViosu5Les1cV-piz5KifOhLgl6XDnYp/s1600-h/portland.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwvNqm5gSbiIXz6lef2aUF9PEvxWdKzvTO4LuA53TxoczPJSv5YjdZQ-Ew3zuSDq2izHGtLZMLdmprbwSA0rHAI1OlJUcjJbBVX4CkBLFwq_2UfViosu5Les1cV-piz5KifOhLgl6XDnYp/s320/portland.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264259309956863522" /></a><br />Summer was blissfully spent with corn, tomatoes, arugula, and peaches, but being the anticipatory eater that I am, I was already plotting my braised meat dishes for fall. Fortunately, I have a like-minded friend who not only loves to plot meals months ahead of time with me, but also insists on wearing a nubby sweater while eating braised meat and drinking red wine for the total autumn experience. And so it came to pass this October, that we wore nubby sweaters on a perfect crisp fall day, and made what might just be one of the most delicious of all fall dishes— mushroom braised short ribs <br /><br />I have frequently made this dish in the dead of winter— most often for Christmas dinner. One of the reasons I love this dish so much on Christmas is that, after a modest amount of chopping and seasoning, you can leave the meat to its own devices for a good four hours. In my family, this means that our championship Trivial Pursuit game can continue without interruption. I love to serve this with egg noodles and a crisp salad beforehand. I won’t lie to you, it is a rich meal, and one that might inspire you to take a nap, but it is just so goooood.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mvBwaTw3w2kaFZ76Zkt5qguc9VgEN3CmuR2eyPZzJJiTxEOo9cJ9RdY-j3SnlbQRD9HKo_BaQN4oIXHdqGBmvkHYZS82EX9RZEd8yRVnh15dbwFFM82oEF-sP256ikcKBcvnf7e5XJf-/s1600-h/short+ribs.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 299px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4mvBwaTw3w2kaFZ76Zkt5qguc9VgEN3CmuR2eyPZzJJiTxEOo9cJ9RdY-j3SnlbQRD9HKo_BaQN4oIXHdqGBmvkHYZS82EX9RZEd8yRVnh15dbwFFM82oEF-sP256ikcKBcvnf7e5XJf-/s320/short+ribs.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264257608558470722" /></a><br />* Note: Unless I’m preparing for 6-8 people, I often half the recipe.<br /><br />MUSHROOM BRAISED SHORT RIBS<br /><br />* This is adapted from “Tom Valenti’s Soups, Stews and One-Pot<br />Meals” by Tom Valenti and Andrew Friedman.<br /><br />Total time: 4 1/2 hours after overnight seasoning<br />Yield: 6 servings<br />6 pounds short ribs (about 6 pieces)<br />Coarse salt<br />Freshly ground black pepper<br />Garlic powder<br />1/4 cup olive oil<br />1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and coarsely chopped<br />3 stalks celery, coarsely chopped<br />1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped<br />8 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled<br />2 cups dry white wine<br />1/3 cup distilled white vinegar<br />9 cups store-bought, reduced-sodium beef broth<br />3 sprigs thyme<br />1 bay leaf<br />1 cup dried morel or porcini mushrooms, rinsed under running water to<br />remove grit<br /><br />1. Day before cooking, season ribs with salt, pepper and garlic powder.<br />Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.<br />2. Preheat oven to 325 degrees.<br />3. Heat olive oil in roasting pan over medium-high heat until hot but<br />not smoking. Add ribs and brown on all sides, about 1 minute per side.<br />Remove from pan and set aside.<br />4. Discard all but 2 tablespoons fat from pan. Add onion, celery,<br />carrot and garlic to pan. Cook, stirring often, until lightly browned,<br />about 8 minutes. Add wine, vinegar, broth, thyme and bay leaf. Stir in<br />mushrooms. Bring to a boil over high heat.<br />5. Return ribs to pan, cover with foil and braise in oven for 1 hour.<br />Remove foil and cook 3 more hours, or until meat is very tender and<br />falling off bone.<br />6. To serve, remove ribs from braising liquid and divide among 6 warm,<br />shallow bowls. (Leave bones for dramatic presentation.) Strain braising<br />liquid, reserving morels and discarding other solids. Skim off and discard fat from liquid and pass as a sauce at the table.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-56555757675819329892008-07-13T14:00:00.004-04:002009-01-14T23:27:38.326-05:00Learning ChineseWhen we finally decided to venture across the country to Portland, I had some misgivings about leaving the food of New York. This is not to say that I didn’t think I would be getting a great deal of amazing food in return, but I was deeply attached to many of the ethnic cuisines that are readily available in NYC - namely Korean, Indian, Middle Eastern, and perhaps most importantly, Chinese. <br /><br />Court grew up in the New York Chinese restaurant community, and we had spent many a day together going to the different NYC Chinatowns to eat amazing roast chicken, pork, duck, and I can’t even get started on the wonder that is Xiao Long Bao (a.k.a soup dumplings). Up to this point, I had been fairly disenchanted with American Chinese food, mostly stemming from the Chinese food I’d eaten in my youth. This all changed with the forays south of Canal to New Green Bo, Joe’s Shanghai, and of course, Big Wong. <br /><br />So, in light of our impending departure I gave Court a Chinese cook book for Christmas in the hopes that we would both use it to recreate some of the dishes we loved—though I have to say that I am alone in my love of thousand year old/soy sauce eggs! After much perusing, I settled on Kylie Kwong’s <em>Simple Chinese Cooking</em> both for the simplicity of the recipes and the beautiful images. We have tried a few recipes so far (with mixed results) but both very much enjoyed her “Steamed Shrimp with Ginger and Scallions” so I thought I would share. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7cDQohQYRDlNGgh6kL2QHS227VmheiIoj6XjE2UIEUJd9-_-jKGiS22eC8kHz6ZeeRYGr06m8G1ymRboxlmSxjJ04jiTzZdlbE7-0IC4tzipU7v03yRYxR_3QQI6lmIwg7RHOf14kdx7/s1600-h/chinese+food.01.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhS7cDQohQYRDlNGgh6kL2QHS227VmheiIoj6XjE2UIEUJd9-_-jKGiS22eC8kHz6ZeeRYGr06m8G1ymRboxlmSxjJ04jiTzZdlbE7-0IC4tzipU7v03yRYxR_3QQI6lmIwg7RHOf14kdx7/s320/chinese+food.01.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222560521470117650" /></a><br /><br />First off, I love having frozen shrimp around because it pretty much assures me that I can make a great dinner with just the shrimp and whatever else I have on hand at the time. The steaming worked beautifully, and as always the only real caveat with shrimp is to take care not to overcook! <br /><br />My complaints here were mostly with the sauce—it quite simply lacked the brightness and balance of flavors that signifies much of Chinese cooking. I have altered the recipe according to my tastes, which are heavier on the garlic, ginger and acid, but I think it is still a very clean, balanced, subtle dish. We served it with steamed rice and devoured the entire thing in one sitting! I also love to slice some Kirby cucumbers and dress them with sesame oil, lots of rice wine vinegar, a generous pinch of sugar and some Sriracha hot sauce. The acid of the crunchy pickles complements the steamed shrimp beautifully!<br /><br /><strong>Steamed Prawns with Ginger and Scallions</strong><br /><br />Adapted from <em>Simple Chinese Cooking</em> by Kylie Kwong<br /><br />1 lb large uncooked shrimp<br />1/3 cup shao hsing wine or dry sherry<br />2 ½ tablespoons julienned ginger<br />2/3 cup scallions, thinly sliced<br />1 teaspoon white sugar<br />1 teaspoon sesame oil<br />2 garlic cloves, minced<br />2 ½ tablespoons soy sauce<br />1 tablespoon rice vinegar<br /><br />Sprinkle the ginger, wine and scallions evenly on top of the shrimp in a ceramic bowl or plate. <br /><br />Carefully transfer the dish with the shrimp to a rack in a skillet (or steamer) and cover tightly, then steam over moderately high heat until they are just cooked through, 7 to 10 minutes. <br /><br />Combine soy, garlic*, sugar, sesame oil and vinegar in a bowl and drizzle over the steamed shrimp. In a small skillet, warm the remaining 2 tablespoons of peanut oil over moderately high heat, then pour it over the shrimp before serving.<br /><br />*If you are not as fond of raw garlic as I am, you may want to add it to the shrimp at the same time as the scallions and ginger.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-91709670375996194742008-05-18T20:46:00.005-04:002009-01-14T23:28:02.497-05:00Pok Pok/ Whiskey Soda Lounge3226 SE Division St, Portland, OR<br /><br />I have to say that I am approaching this entry with a fair amount of trepidation given that it is only my second review of a Portland restaurant and it happens to be on Pok Pok: a restaurant that has garnered national attention and the fanatical devotion of most of Portland’s most voracious and discerning eaters. All that being said, I have now been to Pok Pok twice, both times eagerly anticipating a meal that would delight me—I have as well spent many a moment pouring over Pok Pok’s online menu— my mouth watering in anticipation of the roasted game hen, their beef flank salad, the catfish, the papaya salad, the curry noodle soup and the chicken wings so delectable that they made <em>Food and Wine’s </em>top ten list of 2007.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ELh9DFkrzq2QNI9GUfrTl22VGFl2BvqlbMFprEwSH8rOEenPA94-JV-3R7WpMfM3b5NvreJt4Pi22HsPc70MI_6RQPAwIujctJO2RMDdF9t8MDBC6n1xSxu_6VOtqiCmFLhpnly0DOYp/s1600-h/Pok+Pok+02.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3ELh9DFkrzq2QNI9GUfrTl22VGFl2BvqlbMFprEwSH8rOEenPA94-JV-3R7WpMfM3b5NvreJt4Pi22HsPc70MI_6RQPAwIujctJO2RMDdF9t8MDBC6n1xSxu_6VOtqiCmFLhpnly0DOYp/s320/Pok+Pok+02.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5201887254731388546" /></a><br />The first time I went to Pok Pok was in November when I was interviewing for my job at Timber. We spent a good hour or so in line on a cold, rainy Friday night, but thankfully had the good fortune of standing behind a couple who told us how they felt about living in Portland. They both had visited the restaurant on several occasions and also waxed rhapsodic about the wings. After being ushered into the cozy, wood Whiskey Lounge, we ordered the half roasted game hen (Kai Yaang), the papaya salad (Papaya Pok Pok), the catfish (Cha Ca La Vong), and the chicken wings (Ike's Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings). We enjoyed the hen, though I was not overwhelmed as it was a bit on the dry side. The catfish was nice, but pretty much an unmemorable dish (though I would definitely order it again to make sure, since I adore catfish). The papaya salad was tart, and mostly balanced, though a bit too spicy. <br /><br />I should say that I absolutely adore spicy food and have a fairly high tolerance for heat compared to most, but I think there is a line where the heat numbs your palate and really ends up detracting from the experience. Of course, there is something strangely satisfying about this “pain” as I fist discovered at the age of 15, ordering Kung Pao chicken at a restaurant in Washington D.C., where I proceeded to gobble it up as if in a race against the Sichuan peppers. At times, while eating extremely spicy food, I am almost afraid to stop for fear that the real pain will take hold. This leads me to the (in)famous wings, which we ordered spicy(without thinking twice), only to find that our mouths had almost entirely lost feeling with the exception of the exquisite burning. Because one has to fully engage with chicken wings—no knife and fork for these--our lips came into full contact with the spice and it sadly numbed our mouths to the point that we had to keep rubbing our lips with rice to try and make the pain stop. I realize this must sound completely melodramatic and that it must have been some sort of fluke as very few people mention how spicy these can be.<br /><br />The next time we went, we vowed to order them again and to not order them spicy regardless of what our server’s recommendation—and although he DID try to get us to order them spicy, we held firm. I am sure that the spice is normally fairly moderate but I didn’t want to take any chances. The wings have been described by the <em>Oregonian</em> as “super-crisp and caramelized and tasting like fried chicken from the dining room of paradise,” but this second time around in the warm light of a early May evening, I found them almost ridiculously sweet, as if someone had poured caramel over them in a thick mess. I was reminded of eating a caramel apple as I attempted to scrape the sugar coating off my teeth before taking each bite. Again, I am hoping that this was another off night for the wings, considering how many people I know that love them dearly. I will try them once more and if thwarted again will take it as a sure sign that my love affair with Pok Pok’s wings is simply not to be. The next dish we ordered was the flank steak salad (Neua Naam Tok) at the waiter’s suggestion. This type of Thai beef salad happens to be one of the only Thai dishes I make at home and I will say that I wound up wishing I had cooked it myself. The most glaring problem outside of the balance of flavors (I would have liked a bit more acid to balance the heat) was the fact that the steak was cooked medium well! If I desire one thing above all others in a steak salad, it is that the meat is cooked medium rare. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpOqbVMOs3ZPqmOJ-xWv14YKIR5Sx41HZjBm7SYiksaLA-4ZogoxCP5DjnZF7r4P2Dowb3fJAG7GJmIDHj0pvyrDWtYeb5qFKtBhKjzbVa0izTjitiGIlWRnfhheJX-VTf6PRdZ1saiP6/s1600-h/Pok+Pok+01.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgpOqbVMOs3ZPqmOJ-xWv14YKIR5Sx41HZjBm7SYiksaLA-4ZogoxCP5DjnZF7r4P2Dowb3fJAG7GJmIDHj0pvyrDWtYeb5qFKtBhKjzbVa0izTjitiGIlWRnfhheJX-VTf6PRdZ1saiP6/s320/Pok+Pok+01.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5201886851004462706" /></a><br />The last dish was nice—a simple grilled calamari (Ca Muc Nuong) with a chili lime dipping sauce and crisp lettuce to wrap it in. This was soothing after the sugar and spice of the first two dishes and we really did enjoy how clean and fresh it tasted, but it simply could not get me excited about the meal as a whole. I know I may alienate some people with this negative review, but I am truly not that hard to please. Never one to give up on a challenge, I will go a few more times to see if the stars can align and I will finally feel like I am eating “the fried chicken from the dining room of paradise”. What a lovely thought!Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-80490299416475064452008-04-18T00:09:00.010-04:002009-01-14T23:28:33.267-05:00Apizza Scholls (4741 SE Hawthorne Blvd., Portland, OR)<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGAuoP6y1VVHuUWkY9QvI5Nabl76biYMUF2HyFo0BgwBR_wIIpY5FE9KeFhPPle13XK8FPJd2FNEktxMpLF0_TLAPY9vUZo0Qrpqusyo2Uu7wVIGb2vntGG4Hrk3ngdxagczsqVD9r-1h/s1600-h/arcade.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUGAuoP6y1VVHuUWkY9QvI5Nabl76biYMUF2HyFo0BgwBR_wIIpY5FE9KeFhPPle13XK8FPJd2FNEktxMpLF0_TLAPY9vUZo0Qrpqusyo2Uu7wVIGb2vntGG4Hrk3ngdxagczsqVD9r-1h/s320/arcade.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190436090426468818" /></a>APPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPIIIIIIIIZZZZZZZZZZZZAAAAA SSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSCCCCCCCCHOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS! Let’s all say it together—slowly, with some reverence please! As you might already know from my piece on Lucali’s, I love pizza. As Woody Allen once said to Annie Hall, “I don’t just love you, I luuuurrvvve you.” I myself have said this to Court and even more often, to pizza. Not just any pizza, mind you, but I find it slipping out to a particularly wonderful pizza. Having lived in New York City for close to a decade, I also fancy myself somewhat of an expert on the subject and even though I ate my way through many pizzas in its birthplace of Italy, I have still maintained that New York is the home of the best pizzas in the world. I know it may sound obnoxious, but I never rooted for the Yankees so I thought that my pizza superiority complex was fair. When I left New York, I have to admit that I was <em>very</em> ready, but I did have serious concerns at leaving the pizza (Grimaldi’s in particular). But there is something wonderful about the fact that generally, at even at the most modest pizzeria, you can get a decent and inexpensive slice. So upon arriving in the fair city of Portland, I resolved to get over my pizza pining and just learn to perfect making one at home. That was short lived, as I do not have a wood burning oven that reaches 800 degrees….<br /><br />I knew from Anthony Bourdain’s special on Portland, that he was entranced with Apizza Scholls, but I am still not sure as to how much of Tony’s rants and raves I really believe at this point. Don’t get me wrong, I am smitten with the man and have even been known to start instinctively following him when I have come across his path in NYC (he is so willowy!) Regardless, I decided it was time to try the place after a good solid two weeks without pizza (it was painful I assure you).<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99w1UtDsAJcTftOC9TzjgnuBhiA76p-KovOO9_sRK9qiKzD3QND0d0KQSJ_42a6jJYHFj5NPu-GCokbnvnTJHk9-HFQsLDXbkSzzJaAXLYM2elw4ifBFKh5njWO4_5pFx5OE_fiauA6LL/s1600-h/Caesar.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi99w1UtDsAJcTftOC9TzjgnuBhiA76p-KovOO9_sRK9qiKzD3QND0d0KQSJ_42a6jJYHFj5NPu-GCokbnvnTJHk9-HFQsLDXbkSzzJaAXLYM2elw4ifBFKh5njWO4_5pFx5OE_fiauA6LL/s320/Caesar.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190433668064913826" /></a><br />When we first arrived, it was a Tuesday at 6 pm and we waited for about a half hour. We had heard tales of the long waits, but this did not bother us at all and in fact allowed us time to venture over to the old school arcade with Donkey Kong, Ms. Pacman, and Galaga. There is nothing like old school video games to build up an appetite for pizza! We ordered two old speckled hens, the Caesar salad and a Margarita with homemade sausage. The Caesar is huge and by far and away one of the best Caesars I have ever had at a restaurant. Actually, in our Portland adventures, we have discovered that the city has a knack for perfectly balanced Caesars. Apizza Scholl’s Caesar was tart, garlicky, and full of perfect romaine leaves, croutons, and anchovies. I was already getting emotional eating such an amazing Caesar salad, when the pizza arrived. It actually brought tears to my eyes when I took my first bite. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7EBkv7Tc71wheP4ZuRvfpnrBOlwcVkfsYkUx09c5tntnWa9IaC8BRL4f8rRs6afZX_zHBqlGvJ-i3POaLGNxNvB0S-7CnIH-EDRegRB_51lFROPGn73zqMeae43BYydio_scjVkmUpZH/s1600-h/apizza.pizza.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgP7EBkv7Tc71wheP4ZuRvfpnrBOlwcVkfsYkUx09c5tntnWa9IaC8BRL4f8rRs6afZX_zHBqlGvJ-i3POaLGNxNvB0S-7CnIH-EDRegRB_51lFROPGn73zqMeae43BYydio_scjVkmUpZH/s320/apizza.pizza.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5190433998777395634" /></a><br />All of my fears about not being able to eat an exquisite pizza outside of NYC had been unfounded! This was the most delightful combination of a thin but chewy crust, fresh slightly tart sauce, and the amazing homemade sausage, oh the sausage! Our waitress that first night has remembered us every time that we have been in since, and trust me, she serves thousands of people! I have to admit that the subsequent visits were not quite as emotional as the first time, but especially on the nights that we excel at Donkey Kong, Apizza Scholls is just about perfect.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-4949827312490960522008-03-30T14:08:00.010-04:002008-03-30T15:14:33.039-04:00Westward Ho!I must begin by apologizing for being so remiss with my fledgling blog. It has been three whole months with nary an entry and though I am not a big fan of excuses, I do have a really good one for my absence. Two months ago, I moved three thousand miles, in the company of my dog and very supportive boyfriend, to Portland, Oregon.
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<br />This great journey started a few years ago with a seductive article,
<br /><a href="http://www.budgettravel.com/bt-dyn/content/article/2005/06/10/AR2005061001402.html"_blank">Portland, Oregon: Can a Place Be Too Perfect?</a> I was immediately enchanted by the description of a city that not only seemed entirely focused on a love of food and drink, but was better yet, set in spectacular natural surroundings. I printed the article out for a close friend with the hope that we would both move there in the near future. My friend (dear Attia!) did in fact get a job as liaison to her company’s Portland office, and so was blessed with a few visits a year to this city. She would return to New York with tales of restaurants in quaint Victorian houses, people eating at outdoor cafes til all hours of the night during the summer and of course, the amazing food and drink! As I became more involved with my boyfriend, Court, we would dream about moving to the west coast. We contemplated never returning from a great trip up the Califorinia coast last year. But, as we waited almost an hour to cross the Bay Bridge on the last day of our trip, all of the reasons I moved away from the Bay Area years ago loomed before me and squelched any desire I had to move there.
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<br />As much as I loved living in New York for almost a decade, I had come to resent my long subway commute with people breathing down my neck, and more significantly, I was deeply agitated by the cost of living. The last six months I lived there, I could feel NYC’s hold on me loosening — however, I still had not found the place I wanted to land. Over the years, I would print out articles on Portland, and though it was always a potential destination, I could not conceptualize how on earth we would pick up and move there without jobs, friends or family. Then one fateful day last September, I decided that I was ready to not only find a new job, but to fly to Portland later that month to see if we could make a go of it. Court reasoned that we should wait until the following spring when we had enough vacation time to really absorb Portland and all it had to offer.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4__HWCE3I02gnkqStJhTjDDfFkhmNj0iKQ0Gdo5xsRP05Dsyv98LyGvSjkU6pMYdLmTFUGniHIYQUADoN74KU_kRLP9Yt1MmAjD3ci3II6tYfTKPlRuOZZ-iSUnLgl85x-myX6cuV-kxR/s1600-h/Kens.pastries.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4__HWCE3I02gnkqStJhTjDDfFkhmNj0iKQ0Gdo5xsRP05Dsyv98LyGvSjkU6pMYdLmTFUGniHIYQUADoN74KU_kRLP9Yt1MmAjD3ci3II6tYfTKPlRuOZZ-iSUnLgl85x-myX6cuV-kxR/s320/Kens.pastries.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5183605080601459490" /></a>
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<br />It was not too soon after that the New York Times dining section featured the city as a shiny gold beacon of food and drink, and I stumbled upon a job opening for an editor in Portland. From there, everything seemed to come together as if it were scripted and in my search for a new home, I did find a great city, but more than that, I found a wonderful job. I am now an editor at <a href="http://www.timberpress.com"_blank">Timber Press</a> where I am starting new lists in food, drink, sustainability and green living. We have been here now officially for two months and so far, Portland seems full of potential. And so, even though it feels like a happy ending to the story, it is just a new beginning.
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<br />And next week, the tales of Portland’s great food scene can finally begin…
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-gwQzKft7KCqeXnRfHReqgEVEX2y1hj7andTAujOKfGAUIl7-hV91PTOO7NAHU7iVwIblOmiHkS0oDhgwf42uvSOMXz-e__VflNKLurPbLG-MoHcn9cyh0fu2cL1EiYNTLjPNYrkcOTWU/s1600-h/market.nov.02.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-gwQzKft7KCqeXnRfHReqgEVEX2y1hj7andTAujOKfGAUIl7-hV91PTOO7NAHU7iVwIblOmiHkS0oDhgwf42uvSOMXz-e__VflNKLurPbLG-MoHcn9cyh0fu2cL1EiYNTLjPNYrkcOTWU/s320/market.nov.02.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5183604466421136146" /></a>Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-55623363843128077512007-12-17T20:21:00.001-05:002009-01-14T23:28:48.811-05:00Ah, Rome: Part 2Le Mani in Pasta<br />Via Dei Genovesi, 37<br />00153 Roma (RM), Italy<br />+39 06 5816017<br /><br />You may recall that I traveled to the fair city of Rome last month and did some serious eating and drinking while I was there. The world class art and architecture was inspiring of course, but the food was the organizing force behind our trip. <br /><br />We had decided to go to Rome in the early summer, so this left four months lead time to plan, obsess, and plan and obsess some more about where we would eat during those eight days. As the time for the trip neared, I became noticeably less crazed—less hell-bent on finding “perfect places” to have meals and just content that we could use the information I already had to discover little gems along the way. And find them we did! The most exciting find was a small restaurant in Trastevere that I had read about a couple months prior in a blog I found by googling “favorite restaurant in Rome”. I am so grateful that I paid attention to the blogger who expounded upon the virtues of Le Mani in Pasta. It is a small, unassuming restaurant half way down an alley, with a tiny kitchen that is visible through a wall of glass.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3o-6MGzzhjDPkJqm42c9Ty9oohYdGldbf_FjJ8rSfxD1qsLqyt_qz5tj8FJbo5qxISCwCuJeXWhx4vMn7R5QNr0Dz-Q6LW_BR6MQzJ3MfhLMfs03ohrh-jK0q5bmrIICrtSUfJv0ZzIj/s1600-h/Le+Mani.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb3o-6MGzzhjDPkJqm42c9Ty9oohYdGldbf_FjJ8rSfxD1qsLqyt_qz5tj8FJbo5qxISCwCuJeXWhx4vMn7R5QNr0Dz-Q6LW_BR6MQzJ3MfhLMfs03ohrh-jK0q5bmrIICrtSUfJv0ZzIj/s320/Le+Mani.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145122232913723026" /></a><br />We were only two days into our Roman meals at this point, but we were both already feeling the full weight of eating pasta twice a day. I am helpless in the face of truly wonderful tagliatelle, and almost weak in the knees at an exceptional stuffed tortelli. We were delighted to find that Le Mani in Pasta actually specializes in seafood as well as pasta and we had a lovely, balanced meal of simply prepared, exquisitely fresh, fish. We started out with a dish that I was hesitant to order at first, but am SO GLAD that I did. The sea bass carpaccio with shaved black truffles, lightly dressed with lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil, was one of the more refreshing and original dishes I can remember having this year. The fish is very mild, but with a slight briny flavor that is offset beautifully by the paper thin earthy black truffles. It was the height of truffle season so we were fortunate to have them in a few dishes (mostly pasta dishes), but this was far and away the most simple and surprising incarnation. The fresh lemon juice squeezed on top of the dish was a great counterpoint to the truffles as well, as was the creamy butter that we smeared on the thin toast that came with the carpaccio.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtp_dlXerw5u140D5mIxKb6sH8I3s7ZtRQNv389J7szFNkPtQ8Nx5Tyt3DuwZ-m7M6x4azTiXQRGFDYFqVMU_fehLtO3aRy3uxve-BgMTlPdGLArS4RxkdGQoLUK3nVnlFqbZTIipqp39s/s1600-h/carpaccio.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtp_dlXerw5u140D5mIxKb6sH8I3s7ZtRQNv389J7szFNkPtQ8Nx5Tyt3DuwZ-m7M6x4azTiXQRGFDYFqVMU_fehLtO3aRy3uxve-BgMTlPdGLArS4RxkdGQoLUK3nVnlFqbZTIipqp39s/s320/carpaccio.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145119754717593154" /></a><br />We followed this with another great dish, though it did not have the jaw-dropping effect of the first. The fresh spaghetti with prawns and Manila clams in a saffron tomato broth was delicious. It had the right balance of brininess and warm spices and was topped with a cured fish roe called bottarga that added to the depth of flavor.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUtopnW5zgAfdcKm8VFZhIdqU6o2wcXU1E1iD0oDZcHgbWBL1eidHfXHuOt1zVPaQ9gZby88Fh00eYfru8IteZqRbv-tyutATCNCfQ96zNJKk6WxiZyLS3OQfM6WLjvrXT2cyNZQOetpy9/s1600-h/Seafood+pasta.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUtopnW5zgAfdcKm8VFZhIdqU6o2wcXU1E1iD0oDZcHgbWBL1eidHfXHuOt1zVPaQ9gZby88Fh00eYfru8IteZqRbv-tyutATCNCfQ96zNJKk6WxiZyLS3OQfM6WLjvrXT2cyNZQOetpy9/s320/Seafood+pasta.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145120308768374354" /></a><br />We followed it with one of the simplest dishes of the week, but certainly one of best—flattened squid, langoustines, and pawns all grilled with olive oil and served with a wedge of lemon and flat-leaf parsley. It was absolutely exactly what I wanted.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFHCA4U2gmXTFAqfNOOZGBmHu9lEpgejMNO5NVJFx30Wugvudl96KcPDVe2xcl1YBL5vazJsfHBRIAHrIUDluVztix4J3rlxcLVpUiEOXLvsseFXe453w5jlA6eEAc-uhZT0_ZsRCkRlTB/s1600-h/grilled+seafood.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFHCA4U2gmXTFAqfNOOZGBmHu9lEpgejMNO5NVJFx30Wugvudl96KcPDVe2xcl1YBL5vazJsfHBRIAHrIUDluVztix4J3rlxcLVpUiEOXLvsseFXe453w5jlA6eEAc-uhZT0_ZsRCkRlTB/s320/grilled+seafood.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145120772624842338" /></a><br />In fact, we were so taken with our meal that I decided to make reservations for a few days later to ensure that we would be able to have the seabass carpaccio again. I will try to have a favorite dish as many times as possible if I feel that my chances to experience it are running out. Actually, I think I showed great restraint in only returning once. Our second visit was just as great as the first. We started with the carpaccio, but upon seeing what our Italian neighbors ordered, I wished I had tried the fish antipasti, which looked like a sashimi plate with a radicchio salad in the center—incredibly colorful! We then had simple grilled turbot (a Mediterranean white fish) served with lemon and a radicchio and arugula salad.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOQafZFVVlshDmbRw4rfViQPhm1p4prTsS8sriG7OzLia61KF9CXePObItxDmcnXAmwdyO46-JhyphenhyphenU0NgWwzlJAeVsPHwgEOpjVFIehIZ7XyX_EZxBSeueRBWjDWsbtjaQouFDmbG2c4kyg/s1600-h/turbot.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOQafZFVVlshDmbRw4rfViQPhm1p4prTsS8sriG7OzLia61KF9CXePObItxDmcnXAmwdyO46-JhyphenhyphenU0NgWwzlJAeVsPHwgEOpjVFIehIZ7XyX_EZxBSeueRBWjDWsbtjaQouFDmbG2c4kyg/s320/turbot.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145121116222226034" /></a><br />This time, we saved room for their apple crepes with a caramel sauce and mascarpone gelato. They were delicious, but somehow they were not as exciting as the main courses—the dessert felt more complicated and fussy somehow. I did manage to finish every bite as I have a weak spot for caramel in any form and this caramel had a deep amber flavor that permeated the light and airy crepes. As the waiter handed us the bill and gave me kisses on both cheeks (we were now “regulars” after coming twice in one week), I realized just how sad I would be to leave Rome. We should all be so lucky to have such a neighborhood restaurant. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwVUE8aC0M1Z2f0Ui9-ZkrXqb4GUOL2SEyIVWOpp9Rh9dGwiVsMJvnT4IYFZeAq2PS7bqDXMedz-nOJ4mpAPIvCbx0fQS4JorzBbeG5kUvgBfR1swUghT-T49HjzEguurIlAj3BaezSt-/s1600-h/crepes.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCwVUE8aC0M1Z2f0Ui9-ZkrXqb4GUOL2SEyIVWOpp9Rh9dGwiVsMJvnT4IYFZeAq2PS7bqDXMedz-nOJ4mpAPIvCbx0fQS4JorzBbeG5kUvgBfR1swUghT-T49HjzEguurIlAj3BaezSt-/s320/crepes.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5145121292315885186" /></a>Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-74413346793022289922007-12-10T20:42:00.000-05:002007-12-10T21:12:37.783-05:00Ah, Rome: Part 1<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9UCS3c8TDrwhwiBK6ikvYuc3mD1_EykXgaUvksRIxnPHdu7xvOcsWsAADIwxcsYtW0LDWGaysIVc1M__ZjNxtOxdU04qMScN0EeZWUdvwGOweQKq-ycwbEynxvubg2jkpsBd7TUQKfms/s1600-h/rooftops.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJ9UCS3c8TDrwhwiBK6ikvYuc3mD1_EykXgaUvksRIxnPHdu7xvOcsWsAADIwxcsYtW0LDWGaysIVc1M__ZjNxtOxdU04qMScN0EeZWUdvwGOweQKq-ycwbEynxvubg2jkpsBd7TUQKfms/s320/rooftops.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142528534485959922" /></a><br />We spent eight full days in that magnificent, overwhelming, frustrating, epic city and I must confess that I am still quite smitten. Granted, I am not as head over heels as I was when I first spent significant time there at the young age of 23, but I am still amazed by the energy, the people, the architecture and finally, the food of Rome. <br /><br />We had a very different approach to our visit than many people (including me!) often have when they venture overseas. I think so often we are crazed with the manic desire to see, absorb, and consume as much as we possibly can before returning to our “normal” lives. In that process, figuring out what it means to live like a native becomes more and more elusive. This time, I decided that it would be different. After many years in New York, I was getting weary of the city and needed a break. I realized in hindsight, that Rome might have not been the most ideal choice, but we decided to do whatever we could to change the pace of our lives while we were there. <br /><br />We rented the apartment of a friend (who is lucky enough to live in Brooklyn half the year and Rome for the remainder) and would wake up blissfully late around 10 a.m., meander around the house like lazy cats before gathering our things and heading out around 11. We would then walk two blocks to the venerable Castroni’s, which has been in business since 1932 and where they serve a smorgasbord of food from around the world. They are particularly well-known for their incredible selection of candy and for their thick, creamy cappuccinos. We would order one each and one of their beautiful pastries covered in powered sugar and I somehow felt by donning these powdered sugar and foam mustaches that we were in for a great day. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3ewhGUBpOwmzMIm8CbSYytPbAotLeKx18eQcWNMlz4vi8DBbhW_kX7s1gHeaui6iyvrRx2uMAN6ws9OhxmgrkuC0b3ZV4LSElCAU8Rb9ouL7mUKpofKMTwklYQOOcoHMaJLSCXwgIyVt/s1600-h/DSCN0395.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhO3ewhGUBpOwmzMIm8CbSYytPbAotLeKx18eQcWNMlz4vi8DBbhW_kX7s1gHeaui6iyvrRx2uMAN6ws9OhxmgrkuC0b3ZV4LSElCAU8Rb9ouL7mUKpofKMTwklYQOOcoHMaJLSCXwgIyVt/s320/DSCN0395.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142527997615047906" /></a><br />At that point, we would wander around, maybe into a church and then seek out our lunch restaurant, where we would proceed to have a three course meal. Upon finishing we usually walked around some more, perhaps saw some incredible art, and then went home to rest before setting out for our second three course meal of the day. I won’t lie to you, it was hard work, but those of us devoted to relaxing, eating an inordinate amount of amazing food, and drinking more than a bottle of wine a day are more than up for the challenge. I will leave you with a couple images from our time in Rome and promise to write in more detail about the outstanding food we had while we were there, but for now, I will throw down the gauntlet and challenge all of you to eat two separate three course meals in one day and not worry too much about all of the things you are not seeing or experiencing and instead just focus on the plate in front of you!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvU47BLISteQkN6Osc_YEFxQsE4dIMgPgbaMHQB_RX-IyNjfd5p1wEmQH_kE0bXY3LUnv79THAW3pciNLcz5aekuzUHnZFXMVf2m2Rr07lhHdtcv00O90IZqpPBmTPutM0sPOo0ZkC-zh/s1600-h/amatriana.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYvU47BLISteQkN6Osc_YEFxQsE4dIMgPgbaMHQB_RX-IyNjfd5p1wEmQH_kE0bXY3LUnv79THAW3pciNLcz5aekuzUHnZFXMVf2m2Rr07lhHdtcv00O90IZqpPBmTPutM0sPOo0ZkC-zh/s320/amatriana.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142531047041828114" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEN_UVFMQ8vxhrBPN3KNcbIZCHpoMdbFwuT9O9yjJfKizSAn-zyl9LGyGK29XrePd_j2PPZruQ1xtOu39SOV8nHIxRDyjlYm0_vw-f9Kqg-HELME0PfRJ_XeU_TrY3QgcaeVaTaO0srRTt/s1600-h/DSCN0392.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEN_UVFMQ8vxhrBPN3KNcbIZCHpoMdbFwuT9O9yjJfKizSAn-zyl9LGyGK29XrePd_j2PPZruQ1xtOu39SOV8nHIxRDyjlYm0_vw-f9Kqg-HELME0PfRJ_XeU_TrY3QgcaeVaTaO0srRTt/s320/DSCN0392.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142528809363866882" /></a>Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-82106596318879905672007-11-23T12:00:00.000-05:002007-12-10T21:13:25.695-05:00Lucali's Pizza<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtDrLvRVXHNG_h2nFpyNcavx7mCwFSWuGfSHIi3WFgarKWf4N0bZoD2cyyf8ELIwKSzEgLBA24yFRYY7-AbK52vH-hvyrrvzEIf_4KDMOyy3-6ZXI-aGgmk0gwffRRPT8IVc1zn-JLemc/s1600-h/Lucali's.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUtDrLvRVXHNG_h2nFpyNcavx7mCwFSWuGfSHIi3WFgarKWf4N0bZoD2cyyf8ELIwKSzEgLBA24yFRYY7-AbK52vH-hvyrrvzEIf_4KDMOyy3-6ZXI-aGgmk0gwffRRPT8IVc1zn-JLemc/s320/Lucali's.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136083134810222354" /></a><br />575 Henry St, Brooklyn, NY<br /><br />Once there was a guy, we’ll call him “Pete,” who had spoke so fervently about the pizza at Sam’s, an old-school pizza joint in Carroll Gardens, that we just had to try it. He had even gone so far as to say that it was superior to the pizza at our beloved Grimaldi’s (the renowned pizzeria under the Brooklyn bridge). As he expounded upon the virtues of Sam’s pizza, I remembered that a couple years before a co-worker of mine had been similarly exuberant. So, one day last summer we went to Sam’s and had some of the most oily, mediocre, pizza I have had in years. <br />Just a few weeks ago, I ran into the co-worker who had talked Sam’s up years before. He hung his head in shame upon hearing our reactions to their pizza and asked us to consider trying his new favorite pizza place around the corner from his apartment, Lucali’s on Henry street. His description of a tiny old-world pizza joint that only stays open from “6-until they run out of pizza” was enough to charm me into trying it last week. <br /><br />I am shamelessly devoted to pizza and I use any excuse to try a new one. Of my many food fixations, pizza is at the top of the list. Like most New Yorkers, I become ridiculously excited in the face of a beautiful pie.<br />We went on a Thursday and stopped at Smith and Vine (www.smithandvine.com) to pick up a bottle of wine, as I had read that there aren’t any alcoholic beverages on the menu (the corkage fee is $4). We chose a lovely Spanish wine, Bodegas Piqueras ($8), which complemented the pizza incredibly well. We arrived around 6:30 and there was a ten minute wait for a table for two. I love seeing restaurants fill up before seven, as it not only harkens back to my Mid-Western upbringing where people eat dinner around 6, but also speaks to the devotion of the patrons who arrive early by NYC standards. <br /><br />We waited on a bench that faced the street, and I have to say, I was already charmed by the surrounding- no matter how long I have been in New York, I am still a sucker for tiny restaurants on mostly residential blocks. I can still remember when I first discovered Chez Michallet (now The Little Owl) on Bedford street—I am convinced that it was the location and not the food that made it one of my favorite places. <br />The interior of Lucali’s is just as charming as the outside, and quite unique with a completely open kitchen. It felt like we were eating in a home kitchen—you can literally see everything - from the kneading of the dough to the washing of the dishes. The menu features calzones ($10) and of course, pizza ($19). The service was very friendly and efficient, and even though there were people waiting for our table, they let us finish our bottle of wine. <br />My normal pizza-eating practice is to gobble down as much as I can, as fast as I can—I think it’s the magical combination of the crust, cheese, and sauce that makes me throw my savoring techniques out the window. But for some reason, at Lucali’s, I took a good hour and a half to go through my half of the pizza. The pizza came out about ten minutes after we ordered it – isn’t it lovely? <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcoGrtLl0qAvtM3D2O63-OdN3cDmp0KjeZn8IRFOZJa3W1GilHXPxLhHC1Hsd4YR8PKef44NddjuRCcTEAKnf87kVCMxd-cCJAhhyphenhyphen8MocUZVeO3dCpDeVYh7h9rOIMyLN-2KZTvcp4Xs9J/s1600-h/lucalis.pizza.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcoGrtLl0qAvtM3D2O63-OdN3cDmp0KjeZn8IRFOZJa3W1GilHXPxLhHC1Hsd4YR8PKef44NddjuRCcTEAKnf87kVCMxd-cCJAhhyphenhyphen8MocUZVeO3dCpDeVYh7h9rOIMyLN-2KZTvcp4Xs9J/s320/lucalis.pizza.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5136084358875901730" /></a><br /><br />The crust was a little floppy on our first visit, but on the second visit it was chewy, and still soft—with just the right amount of give. I am always a sucker for a wonderful tomato sauce and Mark Lacono has perfected a slightly sweet, fresh, balanced wonder of a sauce. The cheese is also great, with just the right amount of salt. Nothing upsets me more than having to salt a pizza, as I did at Totonno’s on our most recent visit. What was most surprising about the first pizza was that it was absolutely covered in basil (complementary, but you need to request it). While this was delightful for us, you might want to forgo the basil if you are not crazy about it. We tried both the pepperoni and the portabello mushrooms as toppings. I had some qualms about portabellos being too meaty and cumbersome as a pizza topping, but Lacano sliced them paper thin so that they hit just the right note. We also tried the calzone on one of our visits and it was utterly delicious. I had misgivings about ordering a calzone—the idea of a thick doughy stuffed calzone always seems to pale in comparison to the lure of a light balanced pizza. The calzone was not too thick and had a great char on the crust—the insides were bursting with creamy ricotta and mozzarella, along with pepperoni, mushrooms, and garlic. I would recommend ordering the small calzone as a starter if you just have 2-3 people, and the large for 4 or more people. <br /><br />One of my only complaints was the lack of anything green on the menu—I think a simple mixed arugula salad would be a lovely counterpoint to all of the bread and cheese. But if this is my only complaint, I must be in the passionate throes of a new relationship with Lucali’s.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-34956096449957329722007-11-01T20:23:00.000-04:002007-11-01T21:08:16.145-04:00Bun Soho<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDgbiqYbzEejQCgGDbNlCrr7p2av3rjYH2VVT5NN8cIvJCZsZlA4Woa1dyNvUcXtZpErhRfEboYRWoTpX-3xlrUIrB1_s64owZWHDPKgsYHT5u7uHeYyXSjnmW6nHmteImSnmje4s7uGD/s1600-h/Bun+soho.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieDgbiqYbzEejQCgGDbNlCrr7p2av3rjYH2VVT5NN8cIvJCZsZlA4Woa1dyNvUcXtZpErhRfEboYRWoTpX-3xlrUIrB1_s64owZWHDPKgsYHT5u7uHeYyXSjnmW6nHmteImSnmje4s7uGD/s320/Bun+soho.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5128033998634053650" /></a><br />143 Grand Street, near Lafayette St<br /><br />Last Friday night, the clichéd expression “don’t believe everything you read” took on a new importance for me. All week long I had coveted the online menu for a new Vietnamese small-plates restaurant named <a href="http://www.eatbun.com">Bun Soho </a> — in fact, this was the most excited I had been by a menu in quite awhile. I often find that places seem to be doing variations of the same dishes (i.e. stuffed meatballs, black cod with miso, fish wrapped in pork, heirlooms salads depending on season, etc.) This is not to say that I don’t enjoy these dishes, but rather than I have been yearning for something out of the box — a menu that might inspire me to go down to Chinatown on a rainy evening for example. I had sent the innovative menu to my friend Jeena, and after much talk about the pig brain ravoli, I was able to reel her in to going there for dinner last week. <br /><br />New York Magazine, amongst others, had mentioned that Bun opened on October 22nd. After getting soaking wet on our walk from the subway, we walked into the restaurant to find the manager sitting at one of the tables. He told us that they would not actually be open until the following Thursday, November 1st. After learning that we had traveled a great distance in inclement weather (ok, we actually came from the west village), the manager offered us a glass of wine. My boyfriend joined us a few minutes later and was also poured a glass. We were already amazed by the welcome we were receiving when the chef himself came out with a plate of delicious wild boar blood sausages, which were served with a ginger apple puree and pomegranate syrup. We were overwhelmed by their hospitality, and if that weren’t enough, chef Michael Bao Huynh stayed to chat with us for the better part of an hour about his career and his new place.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvY79G1CqLcjLdyQklDx63gu175Yg2gRcN5FZ-U1oMbNDGcyFl8RgDq5TnrsutO0FDTRd6JSnSYtvCR2k4WEWyKbAhr10UdWTqVytkQRcuPFMWtfsidHpmD4Mzs462nvtXCGgWLIf9MMc4/s1600-h/boar.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvY79G1CqLcjLdyQklDx63gu175Yg2gRcN5FZ-U1oMbNDGcyFl8RgDq5TnrsutO0FDTRd6JSnSYtvCR2k4WEWyKbAhr10UdWTqVytkQRcuPFMWtfsidHpmD4Mzs462nvtXCGgWLIf9MMc4/s320/boar.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5128034144662941730" /></a><br />Huynh, the son of an architect and restaurateur, is also known as "The Architect Chef" for his attention to the design of each of his restaurants. He is the chef/partner of Mai House in Tribeca as well as Bun. The restaurant’s design is both sleek and inviting, and includes a standing section at the bar where the guests can watch his wife Thao Nguyen make rice noodle dishes or the “bun” portion of the menu. Huynh will attend to the innovative Vietnamese tapas closer to the main bar. When pressed to reveal his favorite dishes, Huynh mentioned the Mind of Pork Ravoli with golden chives, bottarga, and lemongrass prawn coral sauce ($10) and the Nem of Duck and foie gras with pineapple relish, lettuce wrap, anchovy sauce ($12). With an exciting menu and such a warm welcome, I am bound to return soon.<br /><br />We are off to Rome-- I am sure to post about this when I return!Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-74795438946009909632007-10-28T17:11:00.000-04:002007-10-29T12:32:14.769-04:00Shake Shack<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtp7xTD2s1hpcAfR_cNx6l38hOIgeFQSFXcwB_jFXbrSLglmNMdsEOpg_4B7VzlHZMbbXoxcqkSp5N5YGu6PFOSrLO58ryCYfLg2qm4CsdZrUyb52-UokLTT7K79NCWQ9vwoKpueCG69O/s1600-h/shack.JPG"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdtp7xTD2s1hpcAfR_cNx6l38hOIgeFQSFXcwB_jFXbrSLglmNMdsEOpg_4B7VzlHZMbbXoxcqkSp5N5YGu6PFOSrLO58ryCYfLg2qm4CsdZrUyb52-UokLTT7K79NCWQ9vwoKpueCG69O/s200/shack.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126500536395591666" /></a><br />Southeast corner of Madison Square Park, near Madison Ave. and E.23rd St.<br /><br />Of all <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Danny_Meyer">Danny Meyer’s </a> acclaimed restaurants (some I have been to and some I have not) I think I will always remain loyal to the Shake Shack. Not that the other restaurants don’t trump the Shack in terms of elegance, but really, does any of that matter in the face of the perfect hamburger? Of course, I realize I have just placed myself wide open for the ongoing debate as to who has the best burger in NYC, but I frankly am ready for the challenge. As I have already demonstrated in my <a href=" http://thecrumbcatcher.blogspot.com/2007/09/burgers-at-spotted-pig314-w-11th-street.html "> Spotted Pig review </a>, I am not opposed to thicker burgers (in particular, those cooked medium rare and slathered in Roquefort cheese), but when it comes right down to it, I am a girl who likes to fit the entire burger in her mouth, and comfortably at that. <br /><br />Yes, it is true—like many Americans, I started my love affair with hamburgers at the often scorned McDonalds franchise, but with all that salt and the ingenious toys that accompanied the meal—can you really blame me? (I am still searching for those collectors glasses from The Great Muppet Caper circa 1981). As a teenager, I moved on to diners (always a bit too inconsistent for my adolescent taste buds) and the new (at the time) franchise of In-N-Out burger. I thought I had finally found my burger haven with the grilled onions, crispy lettuce, mostly ripe tomatoes, the secret mayonnaise based sauce, and just the delightful size of it—big enough to eat all of the layers at once. Being able to experience all of the flavors of a single dish at once is somewhat paramount to me—I think that this is most often where all of the magic happens, the chemistry of all the ingredients coming together in one bite. <br /><br />My love of In-N-Out has been tested by the culinary quest to locate my favorite burger in the city. After becoming smitten with the Shackburger ($4.75 for a single), I have not been able to feel the same way about In-N-Out. I first discovered the Shake Shack several years ago with Dave Freedenberg of <a href="http://www.famousfatdave.com/">Famous Fat Dave’s Five Borough Eating Tour</a>. It was the perfect end to a day long extravaganza of cheesecake, Italian rice balls, Orange Julius (!), soul food, whitefish, and Patsy’s pizza. Of the many incredible tastes we had that day, my first Shackburger left the most enduring impression. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQPjrZBSpdusTGC34KhJujTdF-fi4TURWAvexYoosB5z4JYxhWVhoREFSYN7uFq7uI1cZDM28_FIdRxtxwknRM4ejp05b9uNEIFe0gq1No43XUwGRLpG_DbGSFEq_K_U2743w4YIGe2Yh/s1600-h/shakeshack.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtQPjrZBSpdusTGC34KhJujTdF-fi4TURWAvexYoosB5z4JYxhWVhoREFSYN7uFq7uI1cZDM28_FIdRxtxwknRM4ejp05b9uNEIFe0gq1No43XUwGRLpG_DbGSFEq_K_U2743w4YIGe2Yh/s320/shakeshack.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5126500686719447042" /></a><br />Meyer’s burger has a remarkably similar concept to that of In-N-Out -down to the useful paper wrapping that covers half the burger, keeping it from falling apart. This isn’t really a concern with a burger of this type — it is simply constructed and flies in the face of fancy, over the top burgers (think Daniel Boulud’s Kobe beef and foie gras burger at db Bistro Moderne). Not to say that it isn’t made with incredible ingredients- it is a mix of freshly ground sirloin and brisket along with ketchup, mustard, lettuce, tomato, and American cheese. It is grilled just enough so that it has a crisp slightly chewy edge and is amazingly able to retain the full flavor of the beef without being cooked a bit bloody as with the other hamburgers I have grown to love in NYC. <br /><br />I am also a fan of their crinkle-cut fries($2.50), and this is where Shack Shack leaves In-N-Out in the dust—their fries are not only edible (unlike the cardboardesque fries at In-N-Out), but are incredibly flavorful. Though the fries are not the burger’s main competition for star of the shack—that honor falls to the incredible thick as can be shakes made with delicious frozen custard. If you want something to satisfy the most decadent sweet tooth urge you are ever likely to have, one of the contenders should be the caramel shake ($5.25). The shake is made with the richest dulce de leche (a Latin-American concoction of caramel and sweet cream) and frozen vanilla custard, and is magnificent. All this comes at the price of a very long wait, even at off hours—which is why their live <a href="http://shakeshacknyc.com/camera.html">Shack cam</a> should be consulted before heading over.<br /><br />Be sure to go soon-- it closes for the winter in mid-December!Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-16927491509979561962007-10-27T18:21:00.000-04:002007-10-27T22:36:33.791-04:00Anniversary DinnerOne of my friends recently asked me for advice on where to go for her anniversary dinner:<br /><br />“Hi Juree, You've been a constant source of never fail restaurant suggestions for me - most recently your pick of Home restaurant in the village was superb! We devoured the salami and cheese appetizer and very nearly ordered a second one. We figured we should give the entrees a fair shot too. An all around good pick.<br />So here's my new challenge for you: my boyfriend and I have a one-year anniversary coming up. What's a good romantic place to celebrate a big occasion, but that won't leave us broke for the next year to come?”<br /><br />I have the added benefit of knowing what Meredith’s general tastes and predispositions are (like not being willing to go to Brooklyn!), but for anyone else interested in a recommendation, please write a few more details about what you are looking to spend, what atmosphere you want, etc.<br /><br />That being said, I have a couple of places that I thought Meredith would love.<br /><br />First, I do have to mention <strong>The Little Owl</strong> again—A romantic restaurant if there ever was one. Tiny, wonderful lighting, and the food is incredible and nuanced American Mediterranean. You should definitely start with the Meatball Sliders appetizer—they are sweet, savory and a great starter for meat lovers. The last time I went I ordered the pork chop with parmesan butter beans and wild dandelion and it was one of the most delicious pieces of pork I have had this year!<br /><br /> Be sure to make reservations as soon as possible—because it is so small, it can be hard to get in.<br /><br />90 Bedford St at Grove St, 212-741-4695<br /><br /><strong>Gramercy Tavern</strong>—I just went here for the first time in many years and I will definitely be posting on it soon. It is a stellar restaurant and certainly deserves all of the accolades it receives year after year. The key to not breaking the bank is to make reservations at the tavern, not in the dining room. Nothing on the tavern’s menu is over $22, with the majority of the entrees under $20. The corn soup with oyster mushrooms and bacon is simply amazing—you may want to bathe in it, it is that good. The stuffed meatball with Fontina cheese, potato purée and onion marmalade is also delicious, but you really can’t go wrong here. It is elegant and cozy at the same time and represents what is best about classic New York restaurants.<br /><br />42 E 20th St, between Bway & Park Ave S, 212-477-0777<br /><br />Knowing that Meredith and her boyfriend are big meat eaters, I was tempted to recommend one of the old-school NYC steakhouses, like Sparks or Keens, for them to try, but I think something a little more unique is in order here. Now I have not actually been to this restaurant, but it has been on my list for months now. <strong>Resto</strong> is a classic Belgian bistro and it looks fantastic. It is all about meat (and perhaps some beer for Steve and wine for Meredith)—and fun. You should definitely check out <a href="http://events.nytimes.com/2007/05/23/dining/reviews/23rest.html?fta=y "> Frank Bruni’s review </a> here and know that if you do go, this will be much more on the “fun, raucous” side than a classically romantic restaurant like the previous two suggestions. They don’t take reservations, but it should not be a problem if you arrive by 6 -7 pm. <br /><br />111 E 29th St, At Park & Lexington Ave, 212-685-5585<br /><br />I can’t wait to hear what Meredith decides upon !Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-39014110359727537452007-10-21T12:46:00.000-04:002007-10-23T19:49:56.129-04:00For the Love of PicklesI am probably one of the many perplexed people who cannot quite fathom the logic or origins of their particular food cravings, but I was especially bewildered that on a very cold and rainy summer day I could think of nothing but pickles. I had been hunting for the perfect recipe—envisioning thick pink pickled red onion slices, or delicate farm grown carrots tightly packed in a jar with suspended chilies and garlic cloves. I marvel at the one tracked determination I have in these moments, as I am often thinking about 10 different things at once. Why on such a cool day would I be obsessed with pickles and their brine, and not a warm mushroom soup or a bowl full of little necked clams in wine and brothy butter? Or even my lunch that day-- a delightful makeshift corn and black bean salad with cilantro and red bell pepper? No, I was determined. Bound and determined to make pickles.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3D6PvhY2PdZLLWJiftq_2JPWto_gerXgHQC7I9CcwtHcM1lYVhTNZdLB7LL3YGsRhVKSswbnRrFuFKwYpYeyzrd0QmkPtzjx1NUAhhxJQ-UlwpJAFlPS1kWKOrWrP83hdG_O-Bl5jtgQ/s1600-h/onions.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq3D6PvhY2PdZLLWJiftq_2JPWto_gerXgHQC7I9CcwtHcM1lYVhTNZdLB7LL3YGsRhVKSswbnRrFuFKwYpYeyzrd0QmkPtzjx1NUAhhxJQ-UlwpJAFlPS1kWKOrWrP83hdG_O-Bl5jtgQ/s320/onions.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5123832757605036370" /></a><br />Sadly, it had been a couple of years since I ventured into the pickle-making arena, so I was thrilled to return. I remembered it as a painless process and sure enough, it was just a matter of pouring the boiling concoction of water, vinegar, and spices over the chosen pickling victim. A few months ago, we were eating at David Chang’s <a href="http://www.momofuku.com">Momofuku Noodle Bar</a> and I came across some of the more innovative pickles I have ever had—the pickle bowl was full of seasonal spring bounty: asparagus, green onion, cantaloupe, fresh water chestnuts, cauliflower, golden beets, lychee, and of course, traditional cabbage kimchi. The pickling brine was a bit sweet and salty and Chang has been kind enough to give us his <a href="http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/sweet-and-sour-pickles">sweet and sour recipe</a>, which I will most certainly try sometime in the near future. Fortunately, I also discovered a recipe for pickled red onions that looks terrific from one of my favorite food bloggers, <a href="http://orangette.blogspot.com/2006/07/proper-pickle.html">Orangette</a> (a.k.a Molly Wizenberg). The recipe was adapted from the Zuni Café cookbook, and while I did want to attempt the original recipe, at that moment I wanted my pickles quickly, meaning I did not want to cool my onions after brining three times(!). Fortunately, she recommended a variation that I tried with great success which does not require a time-consuming cooling process. Instead, you boil the brine and stir in the onions after removing them from the heat. It was ridiculously easy. I made them for the first time for my friend’s birthday (risky, I know…) and they turned out to be one of the easiest and best things I made all summer. They were amazing with the Indian food I made the next night, incredible in a quesadilla I made the next day (ok, I did save some for myself) and I even convinced my mom to make them for a recent trip home. I had them with baguette and paté and also with a thick slice of cheddar. I am utterly convinced that they would be great on everything- what an amazing discovery!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicrYwnIHzx0TIFHUSwEQbNEdC0FoAgB_FmsGdhQ8FGw9-sIYC1_n0Rmrd0CPpb0BocFwWWuSzi7iH262YW_urNYVm3scwyawVgrZOuXIqL0HxGtBpHr0bzeOqfBjgxGCcRjER9iqrKkV6/s1600-h/pickled+onions.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhicrYwnIHzx0TIFHUSwEQbNEdC0FoAgB_FmsGdhQ8FGw9-sIYC1_n0Rmrd0CPpb0BocFwWWuSzi7iH262YW_urNYVm3scwyawVgrZOuXIqL0HxGtBpHr0bzeOqfBjgxGCcRjER9iqrKkV6/s320/pickled+onions.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5123832942288630114" /></a><br /><br />Adapted from Orangette’s Quick Pickled Red Onions<br /><br />2 cups apple cider vinegar<br />1/3 cup granulated sugar<br />1/2 cup water<br />4-5 sprigs of fresh thyme (or 1 tsp dried thyme)<br />1 teaspoon salt<br />1/4 teaspoon ground cumin<br />2-3 black peppercorns<br />2 medium red onions<br /><br />Combine the first 7 ingredients in a medium saucepan, and place over medium heat. <br />Heat the brine while you peel and trim the onions, and cut them in full circles (half moons are fine too). Try to keep your slices as uniform as possible and no thicker than ¼ an inch thick.<br /><br />When the brine boils, add the onion slices all at once, and stir to combine. Immediately remove the pan from the heat, cover, and let stand for 25-30 minutes. <br />Once the onions have cooled, pour them and their brine into jars with tight-fitting lids, and store in the refrigerator. Unlike other types, these quick pickles are ready to be eaten as soon as they are cold.<br /><br />These pickles will keep in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-48702567776489172762007-10-21T11:10:00.000-04:002007-10-21T11:26:27.531-04:00RecommendationsFrom time to time, I will feature some of your queries here in hopes that my answers might provide some advice as to where to eat in New York (or San Francisco, or Kansas City).<br /><br />“Juree, I've loved reading the blog for the past couple of weeks. Keep up the great work! My wife and I are coming into the city next month and we're wondering if you had any suggestions for a restaurant in Manhattan? We were thinking something a little more formal than Tia Pol or The Spotted Pig but in the same area. Thanks for any suggestions and keep up the great work! <br /><br />Cheers!<br />Mike”<br /><br />Mike, Thanks for the kind words! I have to admit that I am VERY partial to the lower west side of Manhattan, so I could suggest quite a few places. I will warn you however, that I am not a big fan of formal places – I tend to love the small intimate places and I highly recommend the following: <br /><br />The first one that is on the formal side is a fun art deco old school bar and restaurant called Employees Only. They have absolutely exquisite cocktails and they cure many of their alcohols in-house, like their lavender scented gin. The food is very solid—they are known for simple food like the charcuterie plate or raw oysters. The drinks are the real star here. <br />510 Hudson Street (near Christopher Street), 212 242-3021<br /><br />One of my favorite restaurants in this area is a small intimate American eclectic restaurant called The Little Owl. It is a gem of a place—very carefully and elegantly prepared food and a very romantic setting. Just be sure to make reservations as soon as possible.<br />90 Bedford Street (corner of Bedford and Grove),212-741-4695<br /><br />Okay, because you mentioned formal I am going to go ahead and suggest a tried and true favorite—The Union Square Café. It is a classic, elegant New York institution. The food is almost always impeccable. I love their pasta appetizers and their tuna tartare in particular. I also think it would be fun to sit up at the bar if it is just the two of you.<br />21 E 16th St (between 5th Ave & Union Sq West), 212-243-4020<br /><br />Have a great trip and let me know where you end up going!Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-20841161297359416772007-10-15T21:12:00.000-04:002007-10-27T17:59:44.704-04:00Momofuku Ssam Bar207 Second Ave.(at 13th street), New York, NY<br /><br />I wanted to love David Chang's Ssam bar… really I did. <br /><br />I’ve been smitten with him ever since I first read about his desire to bring his Korean background to the forefront of his cooking. I’ve greedily read his recipes for <a href="http://www.foodandwine.com/recipes/sweet-and-sour-pickles">seasonal pickles</a> and have heard marvelous tales about his Bo Ssäm, which some have claimed as the most succulent meat ever to pass their lips. Chang decided to make pork butt, a cut of meat too often ignored in upscale American restaurants, the star of his new place by creating a dish so decadent that you have to order it ahead of time and with a group of several friends. The bo ssam meal($165) serves eight to ten people and includes a whole, slow-roasted pork butt, a dozen oysters, and a variety of different banchan (Korean side dishes). Chang rubs the pork butt with brown sugar and salt, and slow-roasts it for eight hours until it is so tender that it’s falling apart. I have not tried the pork butt, but I have already started scheming to try and find a way to round up 8 shameless meat eaters amongst my friends and acquaintances, or better yet try to make it at home.<br /><br />In the past, I’ve made several trips to Momofuku noodle bar, which made me even more smitten with Chang and his cooking. I thought that his plate of seasonal pickles were a revelation (though I am an admitted pickle-lover)--a veritable montage of colors - crisp tart lychees, water chestnuts, cantaloupe, celery, onion, celery root, golden beets, and my beloved kimchi.<br /><br />Note for the Reader: <br />Yes, it is true—I absolutely adore kimchi. In all its stinky, garlicky <br />glory. I have been known to stash it in a Tupperware container and bring it to work, much to the chagrin of my fellow subway riders. I love it just with rice, in tofu stews (jigaes), wrapped in roasted seaweed, and I particularly fancy some with ramen and udon soups. I particularly love kkakdugi (깍두기) which is a kimchi made with cubed radishes, and oh-ee so-bae-gi (오이소배기) which is a stuffed cucumber kimchi. I actually used to day-dream about how to make my own and then soon moved on to wanting my own kimchi refrigerator. I think I have revealed too much, but suffice to say, I am pretty much a goner when it comes to anything with kimchi. However, in Chang’s seasonal pickle plate I thought the pickles outshined their traditional Korean counterpart. His pickles are the perfect balance of sweet and sour, which creates a delightful synergy amongst the motley assortment of fruits and vegetables on the plate. <br /><br />I am also a fan of the steamed pork buns, which I thought were unique and delightful, if not at all traditional. The pork belly just melts in your mouth and makes me rethink my old habit of always crisping that cut of meat . Chang is not at all apologetic about his self-professed "overpriced, overrated", vegetarian unfriendly food, which of course is part of his charm. <br /><br />I sadly now have to admit that I was under-whelmed by my first and only experience at Ssam Bar. The space at Ssam Bar is much roomier and seems like it would be less of a wait on a busy night than Momofuku with its tiny, rib squeezing space. I‘m someone who likes to get to busy restaurants on the early side so that I can watch as they come to life, and one of the added benefits is receiving the full attention of the wait staff. Our server was fun, irreverent about most everything except the food, and extremely helpful when we asked for his recommendations. We chose the poached Vietnamese shrimp in a cantaloupe puree with cucumbers, fresh mint and coriander. It turns out that I liked the dish on paper much better, as the flavors just did not come together in the clean "pop" that I had envisioned. Although, it did make me want to attempt poaching shrimp -- the texture was incredibly velvety and rich, but the puree itself was one note and just overshadowed the delicacy of the shrimp. We also had the inevitable seasonal pickles to satisfy my love of all things soaked in vinegar. It was a similar assortment of vegetables and fruits with the addition of jicama, carrots, red beets, and watermelon. While I really enjoyed them, they did not have the balance of the sweet and sour that I remembered from having them at Momofuku.<br /><br />We moved on to the original momofuku ssam and the marinated hangar steak ssam. I thought the momofuku ssam was very tasty, but considering that it is absolutely stuffed with some of my favorite things in the world (tender pork, kimchi, edamame, and pickled shittakes), I did not swoon over it the way I had anticipated. The pork was actually delicious, the kimchi puree was fresh, garlicy, and spicy, the wrap itself was moist and the portions were generous. All the crucial elements were definitely there, but somehow the combination of flavors did not wow me. I did enjoy it, just not as much as I had thought I would. I think I had heard from so many foodies about how incredible this place was, so that it had almost taken on a mythical aura. I am the exact same way with hyped movies—no matter how much I may enjoy them without knowing a thing about them, my elevated expectations always leave me slightly disappointed. <br /><br />The marinated hangar steak ssam was cooked perfectly medium rare, but was incredibly salty. As the star of the plate, I wish the kitchen had been less heavy handed in their seasoning—it was almost impossible to enjoy the dish. This was almost unfathomable—I am mad for Korean marinated beef and love the tradition of wrapping it in crisp lettuce leaves with the soybean paste. I did like the scallion salad that accompanied the dish, and think I will add that to the Korean grilled beef I make at home. In the future, I think I might be better off ordering less traditional Korean dishes at Chang’s restaurants, as I have been happier with his fusion items like the brussel sprouts with kimchi or shrimp and grits from Momofuku. <br /><br />Ssam Bar was unlikely to live up to my expectations on a first visit, so there will surely be others, and since there were only two of us, we were not able to try as many things as I would have wanted. For the time being, I will return to Momofuku, and wait until people stop raving about Ssam bar - perhaps I’ll be able to appreciate it more then.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-5379731889280511842007-10-03T20:52:00.000-04:002007-10-09T22:18:05.074-04:00Applewood<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEd2Mvzz-ilkvsLICs_w-s3iP9G5n3b6GYMwfSvHj1HQ1XaJRDRWORAggKnoDZwK1VDYKaCqQ2oTj1_h2ODd0NE9tSIB-Z7kIcKMDD8KPCZBGlzK1qDoYeprIUI68JzwemGmi9lbxTVKks/s1600-h/applewood+sign.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhEd2Mvzz-ilkvsLICs_w-s3iP9G5n3b6GYMwfSvHj1HQ1XaJRDRWORAggKnoDZwK1VDYKaCqQ2oTj1_h2ODd0NE9tSIB-Z7kIcKMDD8KPCZBGlzK1qDoYeprIUI68JzwemGmi9lbxTVKks/s200/applewood+sign.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5117282779242582658" /></a><br />501 11th street, Brooklyn, NY<br /><br />I have a confession. As much as I admire the sustainable food movement for encouraging more and more chefs to serve locally produced ingredients, I’m afraid that at times, I find the whole thing a bit grating. Perhaps it is just that I feel like it becomes an easy out for certain restaurants—that the cooking hides behind this “higher purpose” that almost dares you to disapprove. I wholeheartedly approve of it in theory, though have to admit that I do not always shop at the farmer’s market, that I sometimes buy food in bulk, and that I don’t always know where my meat and produce comes from. <br /><br />I am, however, also a card carrying Park Slope coop member and have been a devoted fan of Alice Waters for years, so I am very susceptible to seeing “sustainably grown, local ingredients” as a bright beacon, drawing me to places like Applewood that proclaim this philosophy. As Applewood is on the pricey side, I decided to test the waters by trying it for brunch. It was a beautifully warm day so we chose to sit in the garden. When I had first read about the restaurant, it had been winter and many of the reviews spoke of eating tasty roasted meats by a wood burning fireplace. As noted in my Spotted Pig review, I am mad for meat and fireplaces on cold nights. Alas, it was summer so I’ll have to save those cravings for another time.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTX1bL4Qkej9B-oqtmG5-vd-xI4TyU_1n0_MtOrexzhe0FdejXV0tufdTKeI8Bm1qT7cSgVOR4IJx3zqVXni5tUp39pESWkgvQStbmVfNYI7K0sVbi8J6W82ed2DaZzRyJA30OJNwYNjdH/s1600-h/mimosas.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTX1bL4Qkej9B-oqtmG5-vd-xI4TyU_1n0_MtOrexzhe0FdejXV0tufdTKeI8Bm1qT7cSgVOR4IJx3zqVXni5tUp39pESWkgvQStbmVfNYI7K0sVbi8J6W82ed2DaZzRyJA30OJNwYNjdH/s320/mimosas.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5117285068460151474" /></a><br /><br />We arrived around 11:30 and were pleasantly surprised that we only had to wait a few minutes before being seated. We started with fresh-squeezed blood orange mimosas, and they were a perfect balance of tart, sweet and dry and so very pretty to look at! They were a tad on the pulpy side, but that often comes with fresh squeezed citrus. This drink and the setting made me feel like I was at an old-school garden party, which I loved. I had the BLT with Applewood smoked bacon, local lettuce and organic Vermont tomatoes ($15) and Court ordered the Maple Belgian Waffle with roasted fruit and sweet cream ($9). Even though BLTs are synonymous with diners, and therefore found on every other menu in America, I still have a hard time saying no. Applewood’s BLT was very solid: the bacon was thick, chewy and had the right amount of smoke, the tomatoes were juicy and tasted like a wonderfully ripe beefsteak. The sandwich was finished with a light layer of aioli on toasted sourdough. All in all, it was a wonderful sandwich. My biggest complaint is that it was a little thick, which meant I couldn’t get to all of the layers in one bite—which is really the whole point of a BLT, isn’t it?<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuCxXKtxAOlvQ6elLI-RLICDmTzK0GuiffH4341F2cMkWkaohQ3ajiqnbJnp_7wRodPx2i1a7Y8_6UXlY5rTKw4zRtq1w8Z-4t4DdBzkXrG6f2dKW2bcR0I37ZZeZRuoflHnHstbuJPWP/s1600-h/BLT.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtuCxXKtxAOlvQ6elLI-RLICDmTzK0GuiffH4341F2cMkWkaohQ3ajiqnbJnp_7wRodPx2i1a7Y8_6UXlY5rTKw4zRtq1w8Z-4t4DdBzkXrG6f2dKW2bcR0I37ZZeZRuoflHnHstbuJPWP/s320/BLT.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5117283281753756306" /></a> <br /><br />The Belgian Waffle was very good as well—the waffle had a crisp exterior that gave way to a moist airy center perfumed with vanilla. I have to say though, that my favorite part might have been the sweet cream—it was luscious, full bodied cream that tasted unbelievably fresh and I pretty much wanted to slather it on everything—BLT included. The roasted fruit however, was a bit bland—just stewed spiced apples. And as it was summer, I had hoped for some beautiful berries, or better yet, peaches and nectarines. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRXjgmBhclvIP1EmG3zLTCJbau2V_Tn0lPMr_CW17_CgImjIsTAowJd1_qOOb3jGAhaQCgXFqn-eazZjSCiIzDZqwWhyHdIEWVW2D_xZL9pOgkpdR0jdyff9kaNJy2Cf5gycwC4NYlSdi/s1600-h/waffle.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgRXjgmBhclvIP1EmG3zLTCJbau2V_Tn0lPMr_CW17_CgImjIsTAowJd1_qOOb3jGAhaQCgXFqn-eazZjSCiIzDZqwWhyHdIEWVW2D_xZL9pOgkpdR0jdyff9kaNJy2Cf5gycwC4NYlSdi/s320/waffle.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5117283913113948834" /></a><br /><br />The service was friendly and the atmosphere is terrific if you like intimate neighborhood places like I do. Did Applewood‘s cooking hide behind the local, sustainable banner of righteousness? Absolutely not, but I have only been once and will have to try dinner next time. I’ll keep you posted with a review upon my next visit. I can picture it now: slow-roasted pork and a glass of red wine in front of their fireplace…..Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-22674318678946161242007-09-30T20:53:00.000-04:002007-10-01T11:02:42.150-04:00Walter's Hot Dog Stand937 Palmer Ave., Mamaroneck, NY<br /><br />In the year 1919, a wonderful ground-breaking delicacy was brought to the burgeoning Westchester town of Mamaroneck, NY. It was …the hot dog. <br /><br />However, this was no ordinary dog… <br /><br />The hot dog as most people know it was brought to the states around 1870 by a German immigrant named Charles Feltman who first opened a stand on the boardwalk in Coney Island. In 1916, one of Feltman’s employees, Nathan Handwerker, started his own stand called Nathan’s Famous, which is still one of the better-known hot dog franchises today. Fortunately (or unfortunately if you live outside of NYC) Walter’s is not a franchise. It is a wonderfully quirky ode to the unique and extremely tasty “split” hot dogs that Walter Warrington created almost 100 years ago. The hot dogs (a combination of pork, beef, and veal) are split down the middle and griddled with a “secret sauce” to create a golden brown crust that adds to the perfect “snap” that any good hot dog must have. Walter’s other claim to fame is the “secret” mustard , which tastes like a mixture of sharp brown mustard and sweet pickle relish. It is absolutely delicious and as someone who normally likes everything but the kitchen sink on my hot dog (think Chicago style), I am convinced that this is the only topping you need on a hot dog this good. <br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuESn1KDRcoYNh_-punUVm9McRADu2WwZJ6D4tQqLtIT6JvOnuiFwtCH-81dPlpDVbA7tp_qJovdys-MQV_UesV1guSV68STRs-q-Be-OMTJK7J4xqqrIiakogHUV2v4CUy6K6MIfxSAI/s1600-h/hot+dog.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpuESn1KDRcoYNh_-punUVm9McRADu2WwZJ6D4tQqLtIT6JvOnuiFwtCH-81dPlpDVbA7tp_qJovdys-MQV_UesV1guSV68STRs-q-Be-OMTJK7J4xqqrIiakogHUV2v4CUy6K6MIfxSAI/s320/hot+dog.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5116170275739383810" /></a><br /><br />Not only is Walter’s hot dog a party in your mouth, it is a great experience—that is, if you don’t mind lines that sometimes reach a block down the street and can take up to an hour to go through. Walter’s is located in a free-standing copper roofed Chinese pagoda that was built in 1928 and was declared a historical landmark in 1991. It really is an event. Bring family and friends and sit at one of Walter’s picnic tables with a basket of curly fries and several hot dogs. That’s what we did.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jg5gMK9v3AAM4SU0puaw4PyzLObLUK0wi6KHKxFv8KPnzDIljigsfHp4_URVKq_zaPwhfEPM-w3cm_bqixn1pJ3-Rt6Jj1b98QmOpupBCQcUTHGHIKv1HLJAl2Yy8MKx_78K2v_4juAO/s1600-h/walter's+food.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1jg5gMK9v3AAM4SU0puaw4PyzLObLUK0wi6KHKxFv8KPnzDIljigsfHp4_URVKq_zaPwhfEPM-w3cm_bqixn1pJ3-Rt6Jj1b98QmOpupBCQcUTHGHIKv1HLJAl2Yy8MKx_78K2v_4juAO/s320/walter's+food.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5116173823382370402" /></a>Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-18936755721140913742007-09-23T17:00:00.000-04:002007-10-10T20:25:18.478-04:00Gambas al AjilloIf you have ever been to a Spanish tapas bar, then you surely have tried the famed Gambas al Ajillo. I first encountered this dish many years ago when I was staying in Barcelona. I was young and so enchanted with my first carafe of sangria. I felt impassioned and full of wonder at everything that lay before me, both literally and figuratively. One of those blessed things that lay <span style="font-style:italic;">directly</span> in front of me was my first plate of Gambas al Ajillo. I promptly decided that this would be a dish I would eat the rest of my life. It is simple, but so very powerful. It brings to mind those incredible monosyllabic responses cowboys use to convey everything that needs to be said with just one word. <br /><br />I first found a recipe for garlic shrimp a year after my Spanish sojourn in the San Francisco Chronicle. I have adapted it slightly, but it has proven to be one of my favorite recipes over the years. It is the kind of recipe that anyone could make, and I literally mean anyone. It is just having the confidence that you could not possibly screw this one up- unless you decide to overcook the shrimp, but why would you? One of the wonderful things about this recipe is the sheer speed with this can be prepared—which is why it is a standby company dish. I have had good luck with frozen shrimp, but the most successful incarnations of this dish are with fresh shrimp. I often buy my shrimp for $2.99 (!) a pound in NYC’s Chinatown. This dish is wonderful with a simple arugula and cucumber salad and most importantly, a loaf of crusty bread to absorb the incredible pan juices. Make sure to have the freshest garlic possible, as it is one of the only ingredients, and you may want to invest in a good sherry for this one—you will use it in your repeat performances of this recipe, I promise!<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VSG2rK8tyh-AffR_jZF3bx7sndAvI8PBFs6kpR9SWfVZ1H1TqoG5dSeaWncHv9TkWux6rhvEAjcUN2P31qhGCYkd8jpaaTIFbL4xO2w1UQ6WibHNnR6B3Jd5whH8DQejBP1peuqUlExC/s1600-h/shrimp.web.JPG"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2VSG2rK8tyh-AffR_jZF3bx7sndAvI8PBFs6kpR9SWfVZ1H1TqoG5dSeaWncHv9TkWux6rhvEAjcUN2P31qhGCYkd8jpaaTIFbL4xO2w1UQ6WibHNnR6B3Jd5whH8DQejBP1peuqUlExC/s320/shrimp.web.JPG" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5113510277938919314" /></a><br /><br />Adapted from The San Francisco Chronicle<br /><br />Ingredients:<br /><br />1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil<br />4 large garlic cloves, minced <br />1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)<br />1 pound small shrimp, shelled<br />2 tablespoons amontillado (medium-dry) sherry <br />2 tablespoons lemon juice<br />1 teaspoon paprika<br />2-3 tablespoons minced fresh flat leaf Italian parsley<br />salt and pepper to taste<br /><br />1 baguette, slightly toasted<br /><br />Prep Time: 10 minutes <br />Cook Time: 5 minutes <br />Yield: 4 servings as a starter/ 2 as main course<br /><br />Season the shrimp with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil with the garlic and red pepper flakes for one minute or until garlic begins to sizzle. Add the remaining ingredients and cook over medium heat for two-three minutes until the shrimp turns pink. Remove from the heat and sprinkle with parsley. Serve immediately with a warm baguette.<br /><br />Note: You may want to double all of the ingredients (except for the shrimp) if you want extra sauce for the bread.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-27897683998137166012007-09-10T14:21:00.000-04:002007-09-23T13:50:16.051-04:00Sripraphai (64-13 39th Ave., Woodside, NY)I cannot tell you how many times I tried to persuade my friends last summer to make a detour to Woodside on our way back from Rockaway Beach to try the famed Thai restaurant, Sripraphai. Several articles I had read spoke of the explosive flavors, the reasonable prices, and insisted that any Thai food lover must go there <em>as soon as possible</em>. I was delighted when Court suggested that we venture out to Queens to visit the restaurant and go bowling with our friends who live in the area. We made the mistake of driving through horrendous traffic to get to the restaurant (I highly recommend taking the 7 train), but were rewarded with a roomy table and friendly faces waiting for us beneath a looming big screen TV. The surroundings were modern Asian and not too distracting, and are by no means one of the reasons to visit this gem.<br /><br />Fortunately, we went with seasoned regulars who pointed out their favorite dishes. I had read about the thick coconut Penang curry, but had not heard of the amazing appetizer of fried watercress, squid, shrimp and chicken ($9) that our friend pointed out on the menu. This was one of the best dishes that I have been introduced to in a long while. The small strips of fried watercress perfectly offset the spicy salad of marinated shrimp, squid, and pounded chicken breast. It was lightly dressed in a peanut sauce, with strong flavors of chili and lime. I will admit to a penchant, rather a fixation, on citrus, and the lime in this salad made quite an impression. I wish I had thought to take a picture of this dish, but will definitely not make that mistake on my return trip. The other appetizer that was recommended to us wasthe ground pork with ginger, chili, peanut & lemon juice ($6.50). It is a cold salad, and comes with the added delight of a transparent mushroom that I had never seen before. At first glance we all thought it might be tripe because of its white fibrous texture, but on closer inspection it turned out to be a mushroom that brought to mind the lovely translucent sea corals that I always want to reach out and touch at the aquarium. The mushroom had a mild water-based flavor, and set off the heat from the chili lime pork and red onion quite nicely. I loved both of the starters and think next time I could make a meal out of just that.<br /><br />We moved on to the entrees and chose just three, and believe me, it took restraint: sautéed drunken noodles with beef, chili & basil leaves ($7), fried whole red snapper with with chili & basil sauce($17.50), and the sautéed mixed veggies in a oyster sauce ($7). The drunken noodles (one of my standbys at Thai restaurants) were very good — not too oily, and the noodles and marinated beef were both very flavorful. The veggies we ordered mostly to offset the heat of all the others dishes, which all had the asterisk marking them as “spicy.” If you want to order these dishes, but are wary of too much heat, you can ask for the more mild version—“medium” was a nice balance of moderate heat. The veggies came with a medley of miniature corn cobs, cauliflower, snow peas,and green bell pepper. It was nice to have something mild to complement the spicy dishes, but I probably would not bother ordering this one next time.<br /><br />Whenever I eat at an Asian restaurant, particularly Thai or Chinese, I always try and order the fried whole fish. There is something about that dish, regardless of the accompanying sauce, that I am wild about. I love the tender crispiness of the fish skin and the light flaky meat that pulls away from the bone so beautifully (when it is cooked well). So it was odd that of all the dishes, this was my least favorite. However, it was certainly the most beautiful, covered in sliced sweet red peppers, basil, nestled into the garnish of greens beneath it. The fish was flavorful, but had been overcooked by a few precious minutes and was incredibly tough. I kept eating it, hoping that I would find some hidden section of tender flesh, but there was none to be had.<br /><br />As we were getting geared up for a long night of beer and bowling, we were not interested in too much dessert, but we did walk over to the refrigerator that holds all of the pre-made sweets, and chose a silken coconut custard. It was not too sweet and was incredibly refreshing after our spicy meal. On the way out, I stopped in the prepared food section and grabbed some peanuts covered in brown sugar and sesame seeds, which reminded me of a less saccharine version of my grandmother’s heavenly peanut brittle($1.50). Sadly, it was league night at AMF 34th Ave lanes in Queens (69-10 34th Ave), so we had to make due with shooting pool next door at the Golden Q. That of course means that I will have to venture back to Woodside to bowl and better yet, have another meal at Sripraphai, where I will attempt to learn the secret of the delicious fried watercress salad.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-48654601363124946632007-09-01T23:45:00.000-04:002007-10-10T20:17:50.687-04:00Burgers at The Spotted Pig<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYUblBnXY6LvNzAjDX2qzEIxAHwauPhst1PGZpmFGSKJY1BZJMbJr-qXeyGiYY005Ikd52MwVRUZik-1nGi4cuyRunbDjfQtJZScr7sM3d8O7tIuAEK-55QA7r1DrbxC1hm5WFR6NJMIp/s1600-h/SP.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdYUblBnXY6LvNzAjDX2qzEIxAHwauPhst1PGZpmFGSKJY1BZJMbJr-qXeyGiYY005Ikd52MwVRUZik-1nGi4cuyRunbDjfQtJZScr7sM3d8O7tIuAEK-55QA7r1DrbxC1hm5WFR6NJMIp/s200/SP.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5117286618943345346" /></a><br />314 W. 11th Street<br /><br />Ah, The Spotted Pig. I have now been there four times and I still have yet to order anything other than their famous Roquefort cheeseburger. On dark nights solace comes to me as a vision of Guinness pints and a blue cheeseburger. I particularly begin to daydream about a visit to the Spotted Pig when there is a hint of chill in the air—as there was the day my boyfriend and I decided to go there at the end of a visit to the Natural History museum. After laying below the belly of the great blue whale, listening to the lulling sounds of penguins making their way across Artic tundra, I was keen on nestling into the warm nook of the downstairs bar. Oddly enough, I find that I much prefer to sit at the bar area of almost every restaurant I go to. Either to be closer in proximity to Court, or to hear a good friend that much better—I love the intimacy of bar seats and the added attraction of watching all of the action. The action at <em>The Spotted Pig</em> is low-key—tattooed bartenders pouring drink after drink with agility to the motley crowd of regulars, tourists, foodies, and hipsters.<br /><br />I have been reading about the wonders of April Bloomfield's gastropub fare for a couple years now, but somehow much of the menu rarely beckons to me. It could be that even the salads are $13-15, which seems a bit steep to me compared with the giant $15 burger that, with the towering mound of shoestring fries, is a wonderful deal. It could be that after a Guinness or an Old Speckled Hen (another favorite beer of mine) that the burger just seems "right". Although, I have to admit that last time the Prosciutto & Ricotta Tart($15) sounded quite tempting.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7VQfoNPh9nuJJ2ZKIdWhq-QNkqSLgLHQnRCYRBG9bViX5Hq0rxgfrOvFQpX4V6S1Blq2ctYj6856uRy17Bo5bzpYgdQ2-7E-tDWepo9l9ycL7gZwAvYmWmw64ytFXrPxaNCBPUI2qkaN_/s1600-h/SP+menu.jpg"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7VQfoNPh9nuJJ2ZKIdWhq-QNkqSLgLHQnRCYRBG9bViX5Hq0rxgfrOvFQpX4V6S1Blq2ctYj6856uRy17Bo5bzpYgdQ2-7E-tDWepo9l9ycL7gZwAvYmWmw64ytFXrPxaNCBPUI2qkaN_/s320/SP+menu.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5119866211187434082" /></a><br /><br />One of my favorite visits was on the coldest night of the year and I specifically went there craving the warmth of the pub and a belly full of meat and beer. We arrived around 5:45 and most of the seats around the downstairs bar were already taken, but we managed to score a nook next to three feisty, Manhattan-drinking, older ladies. It was a tight squeeze, but I somehow thought that this would just add to the warmth that I was desperately craving after the bitterly cold walk from the subway. Unfortunately, we had not anticipated the brutally cold draft that came from people opening the door next to the stairs and we pretty much froze the entire night. Court suggested that we move, but I stubbornly insisted on staying at the bar. And ultimately, I am glad I did—as it is where he noticed one of the final contestants on season two of Top Chef. It was Sam, the tall, taciturn chef from New York, presumably there with his girlfriend. My boyfriend was dying to ask Sam if he “purposely sabotaged Marcel’s efforts by forgetting his fish” in the last episode, but I persuaded him to leave him in peace.<br /><br />As per usual, we decided to order the cheeseburger medium rare and were delighted with it, though I have to admit I am always tempted to ask for a slice of red onion (and maybe a tomato when it is in season). The burgers that we have had there have consistently been cooked medium rare, and the shoestrings fries are delicious, if a bit bothersome to actually eat. They are so thin that they actually slip through my fingers and get stuck in the ketchup. The one time we did venture away from solely ordering the burger off the main menu, we started out with an order of the devils on horseback ($7), which is the amusing name for an appetizer of grilled figs wrapped in smoky bacon. The dish was rich and sumptuous—the fat figs absolutely bursting with flavor, and the bacon, a lovely salty companion. The figs seem to have been brushed with balsamic vinegar, which was a nice counterpoint to the overwhelming richness of the other flavors.<br /><br />We also tried the ginger cake with spiced whipped cream, and it was utterly delectable—the cake was moist, light and gingery, and the whipped cream was the perfect - thick, and not too sweet. Our bartender recommended that I have it with the mulled wine, but to be honest I am a cheap date and was done after two Guinnesses. I kept remarking that I smelled the distinct aroma of cinnamon rolls baking somewhere, when Court pointed out that we were sitting in front of the mulling wine slow cooker. No wonder so many people order the stuff.<br /><br />Hopefully, I will return to the Pig soon, and perhaps this time in warmer weather. I am already planning to make a special trip at lunch to try their Cubano Sandwich with Arugula Salad.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7269883903029035559.post-83914588137878767062007-08-30T20:42:00.000-04:002007-09-23T13:54:12.893-04:00Our first trip to Tia Pol (205 Tenth Ave, near 23rd street)Sometimes I wonder how it is that I spend the majority of my waking hours thinking about my next meal- where I will eat, what I will eat, who I will eat it with, that it sometimes amazes me that I can manage to put one foot in front of the other. Most of the time, of course, it is on my way to the next meal. I often take a moment to be so thankful that there are at least three in a day, so that there are at least that many opportunities to focus on the next one…<br /><br />On one of my most stressful work-days in the last several months, I kept focusing on the meal I could have with my boyfriend after the dreadful day came to a close. As I often do, I obsessively looked at all of the websites that would deem whether they thought Tia Pol was worth the “trek” to Tenth Ave. in 20 degree weather, and indeed they thought it was. A relatively small, regional Spanish tapas bar, Tia Pol is consistently ranked as one of the better places for tapas in NYC. It was good enough for me, and the lure of the artichokes and Manchego cheese wrapped in Serrano ham had been tempting me all day. After almost losing my (already limited) breath to whether or not we wouldget there in time for a seat at the bar, we arrived without drama to be one of the first ones in the restaurant. We decided to try one white wine and one red wine and became incredibly enamored with the red (a spicy Rioja) as the night went on. My boyfriend adores seafood, particularly clams, so we decided to go with the steamed cockles and razor clams (navajas y almejas, $7). They were luscious—sautéed in garlic, olive oil, white wine, and parsley – the razor clams were amazingly tender and brought to mind the wonderful experiences that I have had lately with grilled octopus—really tender and flavorful—and it made me wonder whether razor clams would be as good with the same charred flavor. Perhaps if I am ever lucky enough to have a Hibatchi (I am working on it), I will marinate some razor clams, quickly grill them and serve them with some crusty bread and olive oil.<br /><br />I digress.<br /><br />Back to our night at Tia Pol—at the same time that the clams were served with crusty bread (which went magnificently with the broth from the clams) our order of patatas braves ($5) with spicy aioli also arrived. I am normally not a big fan of potatoes, with the exception of French fries, and my mother’s mashed potatoes at Thanksgiving. The patatas braves were small, diced irregularly, golden, and crispy, but <em>drenched</em> in the aioli. The aioli had the perfect balance of tartness and spice to offset its richness, but we would have preferred it on the side. I never like to deter from the crispiness of the potatoes (and these actually bordered on amber-hued perfection). I generally feel overwhelmed by too many potatoes, so this is really an ideal dish for parties of three or more people. Unfortunately, the potatoes filled us up, so I was not able to dabble in as many dishes as I would have liked, but we did move on tothe artichokes and Manchego cheese wrapped in Serrano ham ($9) that I had been dreaming about. After the potatoes, I had to be sure that I would have room for this tantalizing dish. Unfortunately, the dish was not as balanced as I had hoped. As great as the Serrano ham was (just the right amount of salt and smokiness), the filling was too thickly wrapped in ham—I could not taste the artichoke and Manchego, and quite frankly it made me sad. I love artichoke, more than I probably should, and Manchego is right up there in thetop ten of cheeses (I love that it comes from La Mancha, the land of Don Quixote.) With the right ratio of meat to filling, this could have been a great dish, but that will just give me another excuse to come back and try the dish one more time.<br /><br />After the patatas bravas, we only had room for one more taste. I decided on the chorizo and melted chocolate on crusty bread ($3.50/7). I somehow just cannot resist the lure of chocolate and cured meats together. Actually, I don’t think I have ever tasted that pairing and much to my detriment! The combination of the salty paprika-spiced chorizo with the bittersweet melted chocolate underneath is something I can still taste more than a week later. The warmth of the creamy chocolate tinged with the salt from the chorizo reminded me of how much I love dark chocolate caramels with sea salt (my favorite being Christopher Elbow’s artisan caramels: www.elbowchocolates.com). As with most of the foods I find most exciting, they taste somehow both like nothing else I have ever had and yet still echo something treasured and familiar. After we finished the last dish, we turned around to notice that the restaurant had become packed with people itching to take our place. As much I love restaurants teeming with energy, I am generally ready to leave when places become wall to wall with people. We gratefully slipped out into the frigid night, where I noticed that my breath had become slow and deep— thanks to the small wonders of Tia Pol.Jureehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16130913402224991461noreply@blogger.com1